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Re: L-IVP Battery Cooling
Also, a remote location causes more voltage drop due to the
longer cable. I have one battery in the back and tried copper
wire (very heavy) and had almost no voltage drop, but when I checked
aluminum wires (very light), I had nearly 1.0v drop from the terminals
to the Buss. Aluminum is OK for avionics Buss, but not cranking
or hydralic pump amp (too much heat and volt loss), if drawing off a
battery behind the rear bulkhead. My humble opinion.
Voltage drop per foot is part of the specification of the cable
wire guage and material.
Jeff L
LIVP
Bill
said,
I think
the only drawback to a remote
> location is the extra weight of the longer cables and perhaps
W&B
> oncerns. -Bill Wade
Probably
most people would agree. However, I would want a very
positive
way to
disconnect the battery from a) the starter and b) whatever else might
short.
Burning
insulation in the cabin is seriously no fun. We had a post
recently of a guy
with a stuck
starter contactor that couldn't get it to let go. Your
next line of defense would
be the main
battery contactor itself in that situation. For those two
situations you want
a really
high quality, high break current, contactor at the starter
and main battery. If it were me I wouldn't accept
anything
less than a
wr582 but actually I went with kilovac ev200s.
....but
being a little imaginative with the other scenarios, suppose you
somehow stressed one
of the
biggish ring terminals on your grid or ground bus and that wire was
just wondering around
looking for
something to connect with. Good workmanship is
the best defense, but for that particular
situation,
if you had the batteries in the back, wouldn't you want something near
the front that would
take the
battery out of the loop?
It is really
amazing how long a big battery can keep an electrical fire going if
you can't get the thing off line.
My plan
therefore is to make sure something else opens or fuses before the
wire melts down.
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