Return-Path: Received: from spdmgaac.compuserve.com ([149.174.206.136]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:38:06 -0500 Received: (from mailgate@localhost) by spdmgaac.compuserve.com (8.9.3/8.9.3/SUN-1.8) id JAA12647 for lancair.list@olsusa.com; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:43:25 -0500 (EST) Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 09:42:50 -0500 From: Lynda Frantz Subject: Metal receptacle for countersunk machine screws Sender: Lynda Frantz To: "INTERNET:lancair.list@olsusa.com" Message-ID: <200002100943_MC2-989B-5553@compuserve.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> >>>>I seem to recall that Jim Frantz mentioned that he installed the countersunk stainless washers by making a recess the diameter of the washer into the cowl (I would like to know how), and then glassing the washer in place to seal it in and provide a flush finish with a metal seat for the screw. Clever idea, and may be what you saw.<<<< Correct. I made a special countersink cutting tool that fit in my microstop countersink that allowed the nickle plated Tinnerman to sit flush with the surface. The Tinnermans are only .018" thich so the countersink hardly cut into the composite part at all. The tinnerman was bonded to the composite part using structural adhesive and one bid applied over the tinnerman is recommended. The above procedure is additional work but those elevator, and engine cowl attach points, and etc. will last a long time with no pull through or paint cracking around the machine screws. The countersink cutting tool I used is similar to a countersink cutter with pilot except it is a face cutter rather than the common 100 degree cutter. I machined mine out of cutting steel which was easy to do with a laythe and then tempered it. Your local tool maker will do this for under $100. Or you might be able to modify a standard 100 degree cutter by de-tempering it, modifying the cutting face and then re-tempering it although I never thied this idea. The diameter of the cutter has to match the diametr of the tinnerman (1/2") and you should use a tinnerman intended for one size smaller machine screw. Some folks just pot the Tinnerman on top of the composite and then use fillers and one bid over the top, but this requires more body work and fill to get that show quality paint job. Jim Frantz >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>