Return-Path: Received: from iswt.com ([206.240.140.17]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-64832U3500L350S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Thu, 10 Feb 2000 00:07:28 -0500 Received: from 1vne2 [199.78.36.127] by iswt.com (SMTPD32-5.01) id A8D41A6B02E4; Wed, 09 Feb 2000 23:12:52 CDT Message-ID: <002401bf7385$e9958c80$7f244ec7@1vne2> From: "Brad and Tracy Simmons" To: References: <20000209054324.AAA10454@truman.olsusa.com> Subject: Paint Estimate Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2000 23:15:56 -0600 X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> Rick, Either Polyurethane or Acrylic Urethane would be satisfactory for your 360. I have used both in the past with excellent results on IV-P's. According to my paint supplier (PPG) the Polyurethane is superior in terms of hardness, resistance to fluids, bugs, rain, etc. Weight will be virtually identical and primarily a function of the painter's technique. The acrylic urethane is actually newer technology, as it is used primarily in the auto industry. Polyurethane is overkill for the average car but can be found on Semi-trucks. I would also echo the earlier comments that sanding between base and clear coats is not correct. I assume that the additional money includes wet-sanding and buffing, as clear application alone would add about $200 in materials and 2.5 hours to the time required to paint a 360. One thing to keep in mind is, with a clearcoated job you can wetsand and buff 5 years from now and have a fresh looking paint job. Brad Simmons Airframes Inc. btsim1@iswt.com >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html Builders' Bookstore: http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>