Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #44117
From: Gary Casey <glcasey@adelphia.net>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: 360 engine baffling installation- Lack of Power
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 10:15:03 -0400
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
Here is rough way to calculate the power, probably within 10% and maybe 5%:  Starting with HP=Torque(ft-lb)xrpm/5252, replace torque with MAP:  HP=MAPxrpm/K where K is a constant ( 30" and 2700 rpm produces 180 hp giving a K of .00222, for example). But then none of that is really accurate.  Torque changes more than proportional to MAP because there is some friction HP to be accounted for.  You could subtract something from 30 - a number between 5 and 10 would be appropriate.  Then HP changes slower than a simple rpm multiplier would suggest, partly because engine friction increases faster than rpm.  Then torque will change with ambient temperature - a change of 50F will change torque by about 10%.  That isn't even too accurate because the air will be heated on its way to the cylinder - a number of maybe 5% per 50 degrees would be closer (1% per 10 degrees).  And all that is true only if you are running best power mixture.  When LOP the best measure of power is fuel flow - I think Paul has a number for this, which I forgot.  What I do is memorize a number for 75% power.  Turns out it is about 24"-2400 rpm (picked a "square" number because it is easier to remember).  For every inch the manifold pressure changes the rpm has to change 100 to compensate, so 75% is at 23"-2500rpm and 25"-2300rpm).  But because of the errors mentioned above 21"-2700rpm will NOT produce as much power as 26"-2200rpm.  Then add or subtract 1% for every 10 degrees the temp changes from 60F (NOT from standard conditions at that altitude).  Or one could create a chart with the above information to which one could refer.  Or, as in my case, with a NA engine (Naturally Aspirated, not "Normally" as some would say.  After all, the turbo enthusiasts would insist that boosted engines are more "normal".) I need all the power I can get most of the time, so it really doesn't matter - I can't do anything about it anyway.

Gary Casey
ES - Lycoming


Big deal.  I frequently operate at 30" MAP and 2700 RPM.  Do you think my 9:1 320 generates the same HP as your Hinky 10:1 360?

George and Walter will tell ya that given the fuel consumption and engine efficiency, ya just might be able to guesstimate a HP range.  Of curse, then we have to translate that to thrust, thus the prop VooDoo secrets, pitch and efficiency might get you something you can use.  Otherwise, just shove everything to the firewall and shut your eyes.........................

Say, I forgot about EIs, timing, cam grinding, porting, polishing, exhaust tuning, dual dip sticks, race hub caps, alcohol and water (oh, that's tonight's cocktail), nitrous, injector tuning, etc. Yada, yada, yada.

Oh, you meant brake horse power.  BHP = (torque x rpm)/5252

Larry,
 
I apologize for my "rant." BUT, I have been in search of 75% power for many years with no relief.  I am just as curious as you.  I am ready to tie the tail to a fish scale (attached to a steel hangar)  and see just how much thrust I've really got.  It is the only meaningful number. 
 
Of course, aviation engines max BHP is measured at 59F, zero MSL (29.92"Hg) while SAE BHP is measured at 77F, 29.235" Hg, realistically about 700 MSL (Note that both assume 0% humidity).  There is an immediate 5% difference in HP, not counting the effect of water vapor.  At least the SAE folks know the engine is not operating ideally at the surface of the sea where, somehow, there is no moisture present. 
 
My engine builder said I had a "strong" engine because the club was turning at a higher rpm than usual.  Uh, I think that's torque.
 
Constant Speed props hide the truth further by not giving us the "gear ratio".
 
Good Luck,
 
Grayhawk
(Too old to care about minutiae - just try to fly alongside me at WOT, 2700+ RPM)



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