Message-ID: <008601bf260b$31026700$4455d0d8@default>
From: "Ian B. Crowe" <ian.crowe@sympatico.ca>
To: "Marvin Kaye" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: 320 Stub wing skins
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:52:53 -0500
Organization: Corvi Trade Consultants Inc
Mime-Version: 1.0

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I bonded my skins with the a/c in the normal position.  I found that the
skins were reasonably accurate in contour and all I did was to ensure that
the fit in the fuselage to wing fillet was good.  I prefitted and clamped
the skins. On the outboard rib I used small finishing nails to provide what
I call a "Jig point"  This is an old wood working trick.  Cut the head off a
11/2" finishing nail, chuck it up in your  drill and drill a hole through
the skin and into the rib.  You can then insert a finishing nail into this
hole and us it to align the skin after you have spread the glue.  By this
means you get back to the same alignment every time.
To clamp the skin I used "G" clamps on the rear to clamp it to the rear spar
with a batten of wood to spread the load and prevent it slipping.  I used
sand bags to weight the skin in the area of the partial rib in the gear
well.  I used #6 machine screws along the fuselage fillet.  The most
difficult part to clamp is the wrap around the leadind edge to where it
seats on the main spar.  To do this I used two 11/2 ton hydraulic jacks
pushing off the floor onto a piece of 2" x 4" which I aligned along the glue
line.  I used duct tape to prevent an inadvertent bond and I kept it just
forward of the glue line so as to be able to check the squeeze out.  The
BL50 rib is easy to clamp and you can also use sheet metal screws if needs
be.  The nails you have used can be pulled out before the glue sets and
after you are happy with the alignment/gluing.
   IMPORTANT POINTS.
1.  The prefitting and alignment is all important.  Also you have to ensure
you can get it back in the same place after you have removed it to apply the
glue.
2. You need to have squeeze out of the glue.
3.  careful you do not glue your wooden pieces to the skin.
   Having done all the above,  I still turned the plane over to apply the BID
to all the mating surfaces in the wheel well.  Turning the plane was a gift
compared with the anticipated misery in handling wet fibreglass upside down.
Also I believe I did a much better job as some of the areas are real
difficult to reach from below.  Your call but I believe the best way to glue
is right side up and the best way to apply the glass is upside down.
If I can be of any help E mail me and I will be happy to see what I can do.
Best regards
   Ian Crowe.

360 FB


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