Mailing List lml@lancaironline.net Message #35702
From: richard titsworth <rtitsworth@mindspring.com>
Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [LML] WLS primmer
Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 15:03:29 -0400
To: <lml@lancaironline.net>
(Message 2 of 2)

Others will have more experience/insight, but I am also priming the belly
(of an ES).

I had a similar exchange with a few others just last week (on a separate
list).  I've attached the messages below (in sequence)...

The first reply message is from Brad Simons, a professional build assist
guy, who I have not worked with (yet), but who comes highly recommended.  He
helped TomByrnes with a IV which won ReserveChampion @ SNF last year.

There are also two replies from Brian Burr and Ron Raby, both of whom just
awards at SNF this year Best Composite and Best Low Wing - very nice planes.


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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of richard titsworth
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:14 PM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help


Question:  I've been attempting to get the bottom of my ES in near final
form while it is still inverted (per suggestion from this site - thanks).

I've got three coats of WLS applied and sanded reasonable flat with a long
board (much of it now back onto the floor).  Last grit used so far was 120.

(Eventually) I'm planning on flying in primer and then professional painting
later.

What condition should I leave the bottom in before turning it right side up?

Options:

a) Asis (last coat of WLS sanded flat, but a few spots high spots are rather
thin)

b) Spray a thin "finish" coat of WLS and do not sand (leave glossy/blush)

c) Apply another coat of WLS and sand lightly to get it smoother.  What grit
(180)?  Should I try and get it real smooth (aka workup to 400 grit) to make
cleaning easier in the interim?

d) Apply a thin coat of something else as a temporary final coat. Since the
entire thing will have to be lightly sanded (at least) before final paint
after the test flights anyway.  I'm contemplating a thin coat of Restoleum
from a spray can?  Would a thinned lacquer be better (lighter / easier to
remove)?

e) Other?

Rick Titsworth
rtitsworth@mindspring.com
Cell: 313-506-5604

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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of btsim1@earthlink.net
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:40 PM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

Richard,
Prime again and sand with 180/220 (why not do as much of the grunt work as
you can while inverted?)  Then, apply one final wet coat of WLS and do not
sand. This will provide protection and give you something to sand off later
when you paint.
 
Brad Simmons
Airframes Inc.
Milan TN
btsim1@earthlink.net


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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bjburr@mwheli.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 2:47 AM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

Rick,
Have a professional painter come over and apply a guide coat and sand it
to a point that he likes it.  If you are close it should only take him a
day to do the bottom.  $200-$300 possibly.
Bryan

 
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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ron Raby
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:54 PM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

Rich
 
Make sure your bottom is totally done. You do not want to crawl around under
there and sand. If you are planning on flying in primer then do not sand it.
I finished it to 320 grit, but I painted before flying. You might want to
concider switching to the primer that is used with the paint system that you
have chosen.
 
 
Regards
 
Ron Raby


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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of John McMahon
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:29 AM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

Rick,
 We are planning to fly in primer also and Mark M. at Lancair suggested that
we do three coats of WLS , sand  and apply a 4th coat that was left
unsanded.  I believe he felt that leaving the final coat unsanded provided a
better surface seal for flying.  

Our choice: Selection C


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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of John Schroeder
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:27 PM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

My vote is C.


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From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of mikeeasley@aol.com
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:47 AM
To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help

Rick,
 
A bunch of good points so far from the group.  The point that Bryan made,
that a painter will always want to shoot another coat, guide coat and sand
before he paints is a valid one.  Painters don't trust anybody!
 
I think giving your aircraft to your painter in 150-180 is all you need to
do.  If you get the bodywork straight, the last coat of primer can be sanded
with a  6" DA just to check for pinholes and it's much easier to sand the
bottom of the fuselage right-side-up with a DA than a long board.  3M makes
a soft pad for the 6" DAs that is great for the last sanding.  It conforms
to the contours and won't make flat spots.
 
If you're going to spray on another coat of primer down the road, even 80
grit is fine enough.  I flew my plane the first year in 80 grit.
 
I'm not sure if unsanded primer is better than sanded primer when it comes
to oil and fuel absorption.  My belly had some oil residue.  I used lacquer
thinner and was able to get it clean before the last coat of primer.
 
Mike



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