X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Fri, 05 May 2006 15:03:29 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net ([209.86.89.66] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.9) with ESMTP id 1093194 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 05 May 2006 09:17:47 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.86.89.66; envelope-from=rtitsworth@mindspring.com DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=dk20050327; d=mindspring.com; b=uHVKUhwCYvza31dfUhHCxi3steBt9pEFixb7iL9FJbfnf9ACnDBJvuWCItIyTS4u; h=Received:Reply-To:From:To:Subject:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding:X-Mailer:X-MimeOLE:In-Reply-To:Thread-Index:Message-ID:X-ELNK-Trace:X-Originating-IP; Received: from [68.40.94.44] (helo=RDTVAIO) by elasmtp-spurfowl.atl.sa.earthlink.net with asmtp (Exim 4.34) id 1Fc0B3-0005ch-SE for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 05 May 2006 09:17:02 -0400 Reply-To: From: "richard titsworth" X-Original-To: "'Lancair Mailing List'" Subject: RE: [LML] WLS primmer X-Original-Date: Fri, 5 May 2006 09:16:38 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: Microsoft Office Outlook, Build 11.0.5510 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2869 In-Reply-To: Thread-Index: AcZwB8WqjKH5tOE0RkSrFeu3T8kCsgAO8i1g X-Original-Message-ID: X-ELNK-Trace: b17f11247b2ac8f0a79dc4b33984cbaa0a9da525759e2654e6b3a6ff44dfd3014999a543b5741355a30146a21c727840350badd9bab72f9c350badd9bab72f9c X-Originating-IP: 68.40.94.44 (Message 2 of 2) Others will have more experience/insight, but I am also priming the belly (of an ES). I had a similar exchange with a few others just last week (on a separate list). I've attached the messages below (in sequence)... The first reply message is from Brad Simons, a professional build assist guy, who I have not worked with (yet), but who comes highly recommended. He helped TomByrnes with a IV which won ReserveChampion @ SNF last year. There are also two replies from Brian Burr and Ron Raby, both of whom just awards at SNF this year Best Composite and Best Low Wing - very nice planes. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of richard titsworth Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:14 PM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Question: I've been attempting to get the bottom of my ES in near final form while it is still inverted (per suggestion from this site - thanks). I've got three coats of WLS applied and sanded reasonable flat with a long board (much of it now back onto the floor). Last grit used so far was 120. (Eventually) I'm planning on flying in primer and then professional painting later. What condition should I leave the bottom in before turning it right side up? Options: a) Asis (last coat of WLS sanded flat, but a few spots high spots are rather thin) b) Spray a thin "finish" coat of WLS and do not sand (leave glossy/blush) c) Apply another coat of WLS and sand lightly to get it smoother. What grit (180)? Should I try and get it real smooth (aka workup to 400 grit) to make cleaning easier in the interim? d) Apply a thin coat of something else as a temporary final coat. Since the entire thing will have to be lightly sanded (at least) before final paint after the test flights anyway. I'm contemplating a thin coat of Restoleum from a spray can? Would a thinned lacquer be better (lighter / easier to remove)? e) Other? Rick Titsworth rtitsworth@mindspring.com Cell: 313-506-5604 -------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of btsim1@earthlink.net Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:40 PM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Richard, Prime again and sand with 180/220 (why not do as much of the grunt work as you can while inverted?) Then, apply one final wet coat of WLS and do not sand. This will provide protection and give you something to sand off later when you paint. Brad Simmons Airframes Inc. Milan TN btsim1@earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bjburr@mwheli.com Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 2:47 AM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Rick, Have a professional painter come over and apply a guide coat and sand it to a point that he likes it. If you are close it should only take him a day to do the bottom. $200-$300 possibly. Bryan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron Raby Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:54 PM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Rich Make sure your bottom is totally done. You do not want to crawl around under there and sand. If you are planning on flying in primer then do not sand it. I finished it to 320 grit, but I painted before flying. You might want to concider switching to the primer that is used with the paint system that you have chosen. Regards Ron Raby ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John McMahon Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 1:29 AM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Rick, We are planning to fly in primer also and Mark M. at Lancair suggested that we do three coats of WLS , sand and apply a 4th coat that was left unsanded. I believe he felt that leaving the final coat unsanded provided a better surface seal for flying. Our choice: Selection C ------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of John Schroeder Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 11:27 PM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help My vote is C. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mikeeasley@aol.com Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:47 AM To: Lancair_ES@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Lancair_ES] Bottom Primer Help Rick, A bunch of good points so far from the group. The point that Bryan made, that a painter will always want to shoot another coat, guide coat and sand before he paints is a valid one. Painters don't trust anybody! I think giving your aircraft to your painter in 150-180 is all you need to do. If you get the bodywork straight, the last coat of primer can be sanded with a 6" DA just to check for pinholes and it's much easier to sand the bottom of the fuselage right-side-up with a DA than a long board. 3M makes a soft pad for the 6" DAs that is great for the last sanding. It conforms to the contours and won't make flat spots. If you're going to spray on another coat of primer down the road, even 80 grit is fine enough. I flew my plane the first year in 80 grit. I'm not sure if unsanded primer is better than sanded primer when it comes to oil and fuel absorption. My belly had some oil residue. I used lacquer thinner and was able to get it clean before the last coat of primer. Mike