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Date: Sat, 22 Apr 2006 12:25:53 -0400
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From: MikeEasley@aol.com
Subject: Re: [LML] ES vertical stab problem during construction
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Leon,
 
You have too much time and money invested to "patch" the vertical  
stabilizer.  I would take the whole thing off and do it again.  I was  one of the wing 
skin remover guys and it's really not a big deal.  Use a  heat gun and some 
vise grips to peel off any layups.  Don't use heat when  you separate the bonded 
surfaces.  They will get distorted.  Just use  wood chisels and any other 
suitable wedges to carefully tap the bonded surfaces  apart.  The key is to have 
the surfaces separating just ahead of the wedges  so you don't cut into the 
skin.
 
The leading edge would be just like the joggle on the leading edge of the  
wing and a 1" wood chisel would take care of that in a few minutes.  The  arch 
at the front and the seams along the sides would come apart very  easily.  
Where the bottom of the vertical stab bonds to the top of the  horiz stab, you 
could chisel it apart.  Or you could grind or cut it close  to the horiz stab.  I 
would be very careful not to damage the horiz  stab.  Use longer wedges to 
work along the ribs and you should be able to  separate the left side first.  
The tough part will be the bottom of the  sternpost that is in the horseshoe 
shaped aft end of the fuselage.  But  there's no core in the fuselage so you 
should be able to get wedges in  there.
 
If you get any damage to the inner skins of the vertical stab skin you can  
patch them.
 
It took less than 4 hours to remove an entire ES wing skin including the  
layups.  I bet you could have the tail off in less than that.
 
Have you already cut off the rudder?
 
Mike Easley
Colorado Springs

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<DIV>Leon,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>You have too much time and money invested to "patch" the vertical=20
stabilizer.&nbsp; I would take the whole thing off and do it again.&nbsp; I=20=
was=20
one of the wing skin remover guys and it's really not a big deal.&nbsp; Use=20=
a=20
heat gun and some vise grips to peel off any layups.&nbsp; Don't use heat wh=
en=20
you separate the bonded surfaces.&nbsp; They will get distorted.&nbsp; Just=20=
use=20
wood chisels and any other suitable wedges to carefully tap the bonded surfa=
ces=20
apart.&nbsp; The key is to have the surfaces separating just ahead of the we=
dges=20
so you don't cut into the skin.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The leading edge would be just like the joggle on the leading edge of t=
he=20
wing and a 1" wood chisel would take care of that in a few minutes.&nbsp; Th=
e=20
arch at the front and the seams along the sides would come apart very=20
easily.&nbsp; Where the bottom of the vertical stab bonds to the top of the=20
horiz stab, you could chisel it apart.&nbsp; Or you could grind or cut it cl=
ose=20
to the horiz stab.&nbsp; I would be very careful not to damage the horiz=20
stab.&nbsp; Use longer wedges to work along the ribs and you should be able=20=
to=20
separate the left side first.&nbsp; The tough part will be the bottom of the=
=20
sternpost that is in the horseshoe shaped aft end of the fuselage.&nbsp; But=
=20
there's no core in the fuselage so you should be able to get wedges in=20
there.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If you get any damage to the inner skins of the vertical stab skin you=20=
can=20
patch them.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>It took less than 4 hours to remove an entire ES wing skin including th=
e=20
layups.&nbsp; I bet you could have the tail off in less than that.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Have you already cut off the rudder?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike Easley</DIV>
<DIV>Colorado Springs</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

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