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Along these lines, what little tricks are the rest of y'all doing? I'm
most
interested in inexpensive, light-or-zero-weight, not too terribly time
consuming enhancements here. Burnishing a stainless firewall, for
example,
would be an example of this.
Rob -
A late response to this request...not many are writing in to the LML
today, so I'll jump and list a few things that I did in numerical order:
1. ) I didn't like Lancair's choice of black for the powder-coated main
gear legs and engine mount, so I had them locally stripped and re-coated
white (my preference...many colors are available). Wait to do this until
all installations are complete in order to eliminate the inevitable
scratches inflicted during construction. Cost about $ 40. each.
2.) I prepped and alodined all control pushtubes myself, then spray
painted them with green Zinc Chromate. They turned out well. "Alumiprep"
and alodine are sold by ACS. I used a section of plastic rain gutter (from
any hardware store) as a tray for washing and alodining the pushrods after
they were completed and ready for rod end installation.
3.) I had the grainy, aluminum main gear wheel castings as well as
almost any other aluminum part) polished to a frosty chrome-like
appearance by a local metal polisher. Cost about $ 50. each. After six
months, they seem to be retaining their appearance well.
4.) I used 4" wide stainless steel tape on the nose gear door to protect
the area where the gear fork would contact and scratch the paint during
gear extension. Cost about $ 20./roll. By the way, I constructed my nose
gear door from wet layups with a 1/4" foam core (as shown in the
construction manual). By the way, I've been flying for two years and it
still looks terrific, no adverse effects whatsoever from exhaust heat or
anything else!
5.) When I ordered my engine from Don George, I learned that a "chrome
package" was available for $ 250. extra. I recommend that for anyone who
wants a nice looking engine installation.
6.) There are many manufacturers and types of paint, some traditional and
others new, each having their own proponents for a host of reasons. I
chose Dupont Chromabase. Its a modern acrylic-urethane, lightweight and
durable. After two years of flying, I don't have a single chip or scratch
from a rock strike. I also chose metallic, which gives the paint "life".
If you ask around at local paint shops, many if not all painters will tell
you they prefer it. It's easy to repaint local areas, blending them in
perfectly, should you ever have to.
7.) I spray painted my instrument panel with grey Lycoming engine enamel.
It turned out well.
8.) I attached my cowling to the firewall using stainless "Tinnerman"
countersink washers all around, but used piano hinge for top-to-bottom
attachment on each side. Piano hinge installation wasn't difficult and it
looks good. Stainless Tinnermans are now highly polished and have a
chrome-like appearance. They are a good idea for the firewall-to-cowling
location, because of the excessive wear and elongation those holes would
receive from the many removals of the cowling.
Bill Rumburg
N403WR (Sonic bOOm)
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LML website: http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
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