Message-ID: <FDD045B6B83FD311A9880090273053E20B641A@CDIM-PTS-MAIL>
From: "Rumburg, William" <wrumburg@cdicorp.com>
To: "'lancair.list@olsusa.com'" <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
Subject: FW: Above and Beyond
Date: Wed, 29 Sep 1999 15:06:30 -0400
Mime-Version: 1.0

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 Along these lines, what little tricks are the rest of y'all doing?  I'm
 most 
 interested in inexpensive, light-or-zero-weight, not too terribly time 
 consuming enhancements here.  Burnishing a stainless firewall, for
 example, 
 would be an example of this.
 
 Rob -
 
 A late response to this request...not many are writing in to the LML
 today, so I'll jump and list a few things that I did in numerical order:
 
 1. )  I didn't like Lancair's choice of black for the powder-coated main
 gear legs and engine mount, so I had them locally stripped and re-coated
 white (my preference...many colors are available). Wait to do this until
 all installations are complete in order to eliminate the inevitable
 scratches inflicted during construction. Cost about $ 40. each.
 
 2.)  I prepped and alodined all control pushtubes myself, then spray
 painted them with green Zinc Chromate. They turned out well. "Alumiprep"
 and alodine are sold by ACS. I used a section of plastic rain gutter (from
 any hardware store) as a tray for washing and alodining the pushrods after
 they were completed and ready for rod end installation.
 
 3.)  I had the grainy, aluminum main gear wheel castings as  well as
 almost any other aluminum part) polished to a frosty chrome-like
 appearance by a local metal polisher. Cost about $ 50. each. After six
 months, they seem to be retaining their appearance well.
 
 4.)  I used 4" wide stainless steel tape on the nose gear door to protect
 the area where the gear fork would contact and scratch the paint during
 gear extension. Cost about $ 20./roll. By the way, I constructed my nose
 gear door from wet layups with a 1/4" foam core (as shown in the
 construction manual). By the way, I've been flying for two years and it
 still looks terrific, no adverse effects whatsoever from exhaust heat or
 anything else!
 
 5.)  When I ordered my engine from Don George, I learned that a "chrome
 package" was available for $ 250. extra. I recommend that for anyone who
 wants a nice looking engine installation.
 
 6.)  There are many manufacturers and types of paint, some traditional and
 others new, each having their own proponents for a host of reasons. I
 chose Dupont Chromabase. Its a modern acrylic-urethane, lightweight and
 durable. After two years of flying, I don't have a single chip or scratch
 from a rock strike. I also chose metallic, which gives the paint "life".
 If you ask around at local paint shops, many if not all painters will tell
 you they prefer it. It's easy to repaint local areas, blending them in
 perfectly, should you ever have to.
 
 7.)  I spray painted my instrument panel with grey Lycoming engine enamel.
 It turned out well.
 
 8.)  I attached my cowling to the firewall using stainless "Tinnerman"
 countersink washers all around, but used piano hinge for top-to-bottom
 attachment on each side. Piano hinge installation wasn't difficult and it
 looks good. Stainless Tinnermans are now highly polished and have a
 chrome-like appearance. They are a good idea for the firewall-to-cowling
 location, because of the excessive wear and elongation those holes would
 receive from the many removals of the cowling.
 
 Bill Rumburg
 N403WR  (Sonic bOOm) 
 
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