X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sat, 01 Oct 2005 10:50:03 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d21.mx.aol.com ([205.188.144.207] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0c3) with ESMTP id 743783 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 01 Oct 2005 08:11:05 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.144.207; envelope-from=MikeEasley@aol.com Received: from MikeEasley@aol.com by imo-d21.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r5.5.) id q.207.aa9022a (3858) for ; Sat, 1 Oct 2005 08:10:15 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeEasley@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <207.aa9022a.306fd6a7@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2005 08:10:15 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] Drilling Lead, Inserting Tungsten X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1128168615" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5200 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1128168615 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bob, I just drilled my holes yesterday, no real problems at all. I had to drill 6 3/8" holes 4 inches deep. I found I needed to pull the bit all the way out and pick out some stuck lead in the bit. Evidently the lead got hot enough to almost melt into the grooves in the bit. You can tell it's time to clean the bit when it starts to get sticky. I would say I had to clean the bit about every 1/2" of drilling. I used a large drill, the old kind that plugs into the wall, it ran at a fairly slow speed compared to a cordless drill. The tungsten rods cut fairly easily with my Sawzall, but a hack saw would cut them pretty well. But I love power tools! I beveled the ends of the tungsten to remove any burrs. I used my calipers on the tungsten and picked the next larger bit, ended up being 25/64ths. I drilled to make sure I had the tungsten rod recessed about 1/8-1/4". I put a piece of tape on the bit at 4 1/8" to know when to stop. I blew air in the hole after drilling to make sure it was clear of any loose chips of lead. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy, coated the tungsten rod and inserted it into the hole. I drilled one hole at a time and glued in the rod before drilling the next hole. I was concerned about the adjacent holes overlapping deep inside the rudder. The hole would be wasted because I wouldn't be able to fully insert the rod, it would bump into the adjacent rod. So I would recommend that you drill one hole at a time and glue in the rods as you go. I only felt the drill bump into a tungsten rod once, but the drill drifted back into the lead, path of least resistance. After inserting all the rods, I stood my rudder up on the top surface so the drilled surface is pointing up. I drizzled some Jeffco in over the rods to let it run down into any gaps. Then a layer of micro over the top to fill the holes. Some sanding and paint touch up and I'll be finished. Mike -------------------------------1128168615 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Bob,

I just drilled my holes yesterday, no real problems at all. I had= to=20 drill 6 3/8" holes 4 inches deep. I found I needed to pull the bit all= the=20 way out and pick out some stuck lead in the bit. Evidently the=20 lead got hot enough to almost melt into the grooves in the bit. Y= ou=20 can tell it's time to clean the bit when it starts to get sticky. I wo= uld=20 say I had to clean the bit about every 1/2" of drilling. I used a larg= e=20 drill, the old kind that plugs into the wall, it ran at a fairly slow speed=20 compared to a cordless drill.

The tungsten rods cut fairly easily with my Sawzall, but a hack saw wou= ld=20 cut them pretty well. But I love power tools! I beveled the ends= of=20 the tungsten to remove any burrs.

I used my calipers on the tungsten and picked the next larger bit, ende= d up=20 being 25/64ths. I drilled to make sure I had the tungsten rod recessed= =20 about 1/8-1/4". I put a piece of tape on the bit at 4 1/8" to know whe= n to=20 stop. I blew air in the hole after drilling to make sure it was clear=20= of=20 any loose chips of lead. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy, coated the=20 tungsten rod and inserted it into the hole.

I drilled one hole at a time and glued in the rod before drilling the n= ext=20 hole. I was concerned about the adjacent holes overlapping deep inside= the=20 rudder. The hole would be wasted because I wouldn't be able to fully=20 insert the rod, it would bump into the adjacent rod. So I would recomm= end=20 that you drill one hole at a time and glue in the rods as you go. I on= ly=20 felt the drill bump into a tungsten rod once, but the drill drifted back int= o=20 the lead, path of least resistance.

After inserting all the rods, I stood my rudder up on the top surface s= o=20 the drilled surface is pointing up. I drizzled some Jeffco in over=20 the rods to let it run down into any gaps. Then a layer of micro=20= over=20 the top to fill the holes.

Some sanding and paint touch up and I'll be finished.

Mike

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