From: "Marvin Kaye" <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [LML] Re: nose gear door actuator cylinder seal
To: lml
Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 18:36:18 -0400
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References: <001301c54745$dd339d30$0301010a@CRAIN>
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Posted for "Dominic V. Crain" <domcrain@pacific.net.au>:

  Scott,
  
  Thanks for the advice which is great.
  
  It is exactly what I chose to do, in terms of ordering the complete assembly
  and a seal kit.
  
  I want to get it up and running by the end of the coming week, so it was the
  way to go.
  
  And your detail on the removal and repair is very much appreciated.
  
  I intend to do that at leisure and place the current actuator on the spares
  shelf.
  
  Thank again,
  
  Dom
  
  

"""
  Consider this strategy.  Buy both a new actuator and a seal kit.  Quickly
  replace the old cylinder with the new and go fly.  At your leisure, replace
  the seals in the old (even if only for the learning experience) and keep it
  on your "quick fix" shelf along with tubes, tires, main actuator seal kit
  and other handy items.
  
  The door actuators are simpler in construction than the gear actuators and
  do not require the removal of the pipe-threaded fittings for disassembly.
  Also, there is a hole thru the actuator shaft so you can put a pin through
  it to hold the shaft (and spring) while you loosen the rod end locking nut -
  just remember how many turns to remove the rod end.  Note also that the
  floating tube on the shaft is the up stop.  Circlip pliers will be required
  to remove retaining clip. Remember the orientation of the seals, especially
  the shaft seal.
  
  Why should you get a new one and at least disassemble the old?  To check
  that the failure is not from "cocking" the actuator and scoring the cylinder
  walls - something that new seals may only temporarily resolve.
"""