X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 10:04:30 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d04.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.36] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c5) with ESMTP id 911142 for lml@lancaironline.net; Fri, 22 Apr 2005 08:19:24 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.36; envelope-from=Sky2high@aol.com Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-d04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38.7.) id q.13e.11ce76e1 (3858) for ; Fri, 22 Apr 2005 08:18:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <13e.11ce76e1.2f9a4597@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2005 08:18:31 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] nose gear door actuator cylinder seal X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1114172311" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5000 -------------------------------1114172311 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/22/2005 12:51:27 A.M. Central Standard Time, marv@lancaironline.net writes: Any advice for a fixing the nose gear door actuator cylinder seal which blew yesterday. How long to replace the seal do you think. Just wondering if it is worth completely replacing the whole assembly by the time I get the $8 seals out here, and then the cost of shipping, running the actuator up to the maintenance outfit and back, who have the equipment and expertise to replace the seals, hourly rates $60. Reckon its cost effective to buy the whole assembly and replace it myself. Dom, Consider this strategy. Buy both a new actuator and a seal kit. Quickly replace the old cylinder with the new and go fly. At your leisure, replace the seals in the old (even if only for the learning experience) and keep it on your "quick fix" shelf along with tubes, tires, main actuator seal kit and other handy items. The door actuators are simpler in construction than the gear actuators and do not require the removal of the pipe-threaded fittings for disassembly. Also, there is a hole thru the actuator shaft so you can put a pin through it to hold the shaft (and spring) while you loosen the rod end locking nut - just remember how many turns to remove the rod end. Note also that the floating tube on the shaft is the up stop. Circlip pliers will be required to remove retaining clip. Remember the orientation of the seals, especially the shaft seal. Why should you get a new one and at least disassemble the old? To check that the failure is not from "cocking" the actuator and scoring the cylinder walls - something that new seals may only temporarily resolve. Scott Krueger AKA Grayhawk Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96 Aurora, IL (KARR) Fair and Balanced Opinions at No Charge! Metaphysical Monologues used at your own Risk. -------------------------------1114172311 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 4/22/2005 12:51:27 A.M. Central Standard Time,=20 marv@lancaironline.net writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>Any=20 advice for a fixing the nose gear door actuator cylinder seal which=20 blew
yesterday.

How long to replace the sea= l do=20 you think.

Just wondering if it is worth completely=20 replacing the whole assembly by the
time I get the $8 seals out=20 here, and then the cost of shipping, running the
actuator up to=20= the=20 maintenance outfit and back, who have the equipment and
expertis= e to=20 replace the seals, hourly rates $60. Reckon its cost effective
&n= bsp;=20 to buy the whole assembly and replace it=20 myself.

Dom,

Consider this strategy. Buy both a new actuator and a seal kit.&n= bsp;=20 Quickly replace the old cylinder with the new and go fly. At your leis= ure,=20 replace the seals in the old (even if only for the learning experience) = ;and=20 keep it on your "quick fix" shelf along with tubes, tires, main actuator sea= l=20 kit and other handy items.

The door actuators are simpler in construction than the gear actuators=20= and=20 do not require the removal of the pipe-threaded fittings for disassembly.&nb= sp;=20 Also, there is a hole thru the actuator shaft so you can put a pin thro= ugh=20 it to hold the shaft (and spring) while you loosen the rod end locking=20= nut=20 - just remember how many turns to remove the rod end. Note also that t= he=20 floating tube on the shaft is the up stop. Circlip pliers will be requ= ired=20 to remove retaining clip. Remember the orientation of the seals, especi= ally=20 the shaft seal.

Why should you get a new one and at least disassemble the old? To= =20 check that the failure is not from "cocking" the actuator and scoring t= he=20 cylinder walls - something that new seals may only=20 temporarily resolve.

Scott Krueger=20 AKA Grayhawk
Lancair N92EX IO320 SB 89/96
Aurora, IL (KARR)

Fai= r=20 and Balanced Opinions at No Charge!
Metaphysical Monologues used at your=20= own=20 Risk.

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