Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 13:03:48 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from smtp.perigee.net ([166.82.201.14] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 384974 for lml@lancaironline.net; Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:55:24 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=166.82.201.14; envelope-from=jschroeder@perigee.net Received: from john-study.home_wireless (dsl-208-26-41-158.perigee.net [208.26.41.158]) by smtp.perigee.net (8.12.10/8.12.10) with ESMTP id i7UGsrTp018318 for ; Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:54:56 -0400 X-Original-Date: Mon, 30 Aug 2004 12:54:59 -0400 X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" Subject: Re: [LML] Finishing techniques References: From: "John Schroeder" Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; delsp=yes; charset=iso-8859-15 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Original-Message-ID: In-Reply-To: User-Agent: Opera M2/7.52 (Win32, build 3834) Gary - Our fastbuild door for the ES is a carbon fiber one adapted from the IV. That's what they shipped us. We had to do some edge buildups around the frame and to match wing tips to ailerons, etc. We glue strips of tape-covered, thin material (like trimmings from the aileron skins) with hot melt glue in positions to form channels and dams. We extend them slightly to allow for shaping and sanding. We use a flox wi/ a little bit of cabosil (ACS has it). The cab is a thixotropic material that thickens & makes it stay in position better. It also makes it spread and shape a lot easier. To shape, we found that a 1/4 90 degree die grinder is the best to get it started befored going to sandpaper. We use a 2" "Roloc" adaptor with 2" 40, 80 & 120 grit disks. If you take it easy with that piece of machinery, you can get very good in shaping. BTW, a squirt of acetone on the hot glue loosens it so that a sharp chisel can scrape it off. Very little residue remains that another shot of acetone and scuff of sanding won't take care of. We follow the flox wi/ a thin coat of micro to fill any pinholes. The edges we have done really are hard. If we have to make sure that a block of flox will stay intact, we drill a few small holes in the edges of the area to be built up. They provide "pins" of flox when dry. in a couple of cases, we covered the flox wi/ a 1 BID and a bit of micro sanded. John > To add to the other questions that came up, what about corners that have > to > be built up? Notably around the door, there are areas on my ES that > have to > be built up to form an outside corner.