Sender: <marv@lancaironline.net> (Marvin Kaye)
To: lml@lancaironline.net
Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2004 15:15:39 -0500
Message-ID: <redirect-2987814@logan.com>
From: Mark Steitle <msteitle@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Converting the 55 amp Internally Regulated ND Alt. (was
  alternator questions)
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All,
I have been asked to post my ND conversion procedure referred to in an 
earlier post.  So, here it is.  There may be an easier way to accomplish 
this, but here is one more method to convert your 55 amp ND alternator to 
external regulation.

Mark S.

=============================================
Bob N. strongly recommends using externally regulated alternators only, or
modifying the internal regulator models so as to allow it to be shut down
if necessary. (Supposedly, a voltage run-away can happen in a few seconds.)
Problem is that the articles I read explaining how to convert the
internally regulated alternators to external regulation didn't work. (Maybe I
did something wrong?) I think I have worked out a simpler solution. The
objective here is to isolate the field windings from the diode bridge so
that the alternator can then be externally controlled.

This is how I went about converting my alternators. First I removed the
back cover, exposing the diode bridge, regulator assy. and brush holder.
Then removed the regulator and brush holder and threw the regulator assy in
the trash. Next I removed the brush holder and shaped a little brace from
1/8" phenolic that will support one side of the brush holder and isolate it
from the diode bridge. This piece will be about 7/8" x 1/4" with a #8 hole
in each end. Do not make this piece out of metal or it will short out the
brush assy. to the diode bridge and this conversion won't work. Also,
make up a jumper wire about three inches long with a
ring terminal on each end. One end will attach to the right terminal on the
brush holder and the other will attach to the alternator case (gnd.).
The other terminal on the brush holder will need a spacer under it to keep
everything aligned properly. The left brush will need to have the lead wire
un-soldered from the brush holder. The wire comes through the back of the
brush holder. Unsolder it there and drill out the hole just a bit to allow
a #20 wire with shrink tube to fit snugly through the hole. Solder the #20
wire to the end of the braided wire on the brush.

Now we're ready to reassemble the whole thing. Pass the #20 wire through
the hole drilled in the brush holder and reinsert the spring and brush.
Screw the brush holder back into place, with a spacer washer under the left
terminal to keep it square with the armature. The ground wire goes on the
opposite terminal. Feed the wire soldered to the brush through a hole in the
alternator cover, with a grommet to prevent chaffing. This wire will go to the
"F" terminal of the external voltage regulator. I used a generic Ford unit 
from
a mid-seventies model (approx. $10/ea from Auto Zone). The S & A terminals
of the regulator tie together and get fed from the alt. switch & 5 amp 
breaker.
The "B" terminal on the alternator goes to the battery contactor. The other
terminal on the regulator isn't used.

I modified two ND alternators using this method and they both work great.
It takes about 30 minutes to do the modifications. All I need to do now is
add a crowbar over-voltage protector to each regulator and I'm set to go.
Or you can use a B&C voltage regulator with built-in OVP and low-voltage
warning.


>Mark,
>
>I would also appreciate a copy of your narrative if possible.  Others
>might find it useful as well, you might consider posting it on the LML
>site or just send as an attachment to the mailing list.  Thanks.
>
>Scott Richardson
>scott_m_richardson@sbcglobal.net
>235/290  80%