Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 17:18:46 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from qmail.accesscomm.ca ([204.83.142.82] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.5) with SMTP id 2645444 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 21 Oct 2003 12:49:27 -0400 Received: (qmail 3396 invoked from network); 21 Oct 2003 16:49:28 -0000 Received: from cust140-67.weyburn-leg.accesscomm.ca (HELO Jarrett) (216.174.140.67) by qmail.accesscomm.ca with SMTP; 21 Oct 2003 16:49:28 -0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <006601c397f2$d99fbc70$8200a8c0@Jarrett> From: "JJ JOHNSON" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" References: Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Drilling the Lancair Fiberglass Panel X-Original-Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 10:46:17 -0600 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1158 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 > lay out a panel in AutoCAD (or equivalent) and laser-cut it for you. I've been watching this discussion of panels for a bit now and just wanted to mention. I've worked w/ laser cut parts alot. One thing that I've found is that laser's cut the alum pretty well, but require alot of clean up afterwards as the alum. leaves alot of `slag' on the back-side of the cut. One alternative to this is to have is water jet cut [ or hydro cut] this leaves a very nice edge and is very comparable in price to laser cutting. I've had 1/2" 304 cut w/ the hydro system and it leaves a very nice square [ little if any curf] edge that is sorta polished looking. Laser is great for both stainless and steel but Hydro is recommended for the alum. My 2 cents Jarrett Johnson