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Dale,
Put a
layer of electrical or good (blue) masking tape over the spar to simulate the
adhesive and lay the skin in place--after you've sanded and fitted the skin in
it's final position. It won't be a perfect simulation, but much closer than any
other method we've tried. BE SURE not to use duct tape for this--it's almost
impossible to get the residue off this critical bond line--and to carefully
clean/sand the parts again before bonding after you remove the "spacer."
We've almost quit using duct tape for anything on the airplane because of
the cleanup mess--and my concern that we weren't really getting it all off. Only
recent exception has been to apply it on top of release tape for spacing...then
pealed off the whole mess of tape.
In my
experience, your troubles to install the elevator and rudder pivots as close to
the centerline as possible will be well rewarded. Even a 1/16" difference is
noticeable as you work the gap clearances later. Likewise, making the radius on
the front of the rudder and elevators correspond to the hinge centerline/pivot
is a challenge, but also worth the effort.
Bob
I am trying to establish an accurate center line
for the hinges on the the horizontal stab. I contacted Redmond today and They
brought up a the following point.Even though you can split the difference
between the bottom skin and the top of the spar during layout, when you
install the top skin, there is a good chance that the bonding epoxy will be
thicker than the factory bond on the bottom skin. This would raise the top
skin off the spar a little and put it further away from the center line than
the bottom skin, and now the line is not in the center, it is closer to the
bottom skin.
Has anyone had this problem and is there a better
way to find the centerline than splitting the difference at the hinge
points?
Thank You
Dale Wills
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