Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 09:14:00 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r04.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.100] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b1) with ESMTP id 2081015 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:13:27 -0500 Received: from Sky2high@aol.com by imo-r04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.21.) id q.4a.19f57649 (4320) for ; Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:13:19 -0500 (EST) From: Sky2high@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <4a.19f57649.2bab186e@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 08:13:18 EST Subject: Re: [LML] 320 nose gear hyd. cyl. attach block X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_4a.19f57649.2bab186e_boundary" X-Mailer: 8.0 for Windows sub 860 --part1_4a.19f57649.2bab186e_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/20/2003 6:34:27 AM Central Standard Time, yacht-pool@forsikring.dk writes: > Do I grind off the phenolic block and install a new on farther aft??? > > What am I mssing here??? > Tim, The "i" in "missing". Nice picture of the problem. I have heard that this is not unusual in a fast build and has also occurred with slavishly following the plans on a slow build. If the height of the wheel well wasn't perfect or the leading edge was cut at a funny angle, the geometry could change enough to account for the misalignment. Choose some position for the new block that still leaves a few threads for final adjustment and make sure that that position works for both up and down. Cut off only enough of the old block to allow positioning of a new block, and use plenty of flox and glass. Remember that this point is supporting the gear during flight and also must suffer the initial pull (against the overcenter lock of the gas spring) to achieve gear up. Make sure that at final adjustment the up-stop is engaged at gear up and the actuator is physically fully extended when the gear is down to eliminate any high force against the block and the over-center link. There have been delaminations in this area from mis-adjustment and lack of reinforcement. Scott Krueger N92EX --part1_4a.19f57649.2bab186e_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable In a message dated 3/20/2003 6:34:27 AM Central Standa= rd Time, yacht-pool@forsikring.dk writes:

Do I grind off the phenolic blo= ck and install a new on farther aft???

What am I mssing here???


Tim,

The "i" in "missing".

Nice picture of the problem.  I have heard that this is not unusual in=20= a fast build and has also occurred with slavishly following the plans on a s= low build.  If the height of the wheel well wasn't perfect or the leadi= ng edge was cut at a funny angle, the geometry could change enough to accoun= t for the misalignment.  Choose some position for the new block that st= ill leaves a few threads for final adjustment and make sure that that positi= on works for both up and down. Cut off only enough of the old block to allow= positioning of a new block, and use plenty of flox and glass.  Remembe= r that this point is supporting the gear during flight and also must suffer=20= the initial pull (against the overcenter lock of the gas spring) to achieve=20= gear up. 

Make sure that at final adjustment the up-stop is engaged at gear up and the= actuator is physically fully extended when the gear is down to eliminate an= y high force against the block and the over-center link.  There have be= en delaminations in this area from mis-adjustment and lack of reinforcement.=

Scott Krueger
N92EX --part1_4a.19f57649.2bab186e_boundary--