Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 08:40:36 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0.5) with ESMTP id 2001309 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:46:23 -0500 Received: from Newlan2dl@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.13.) id q.103.25589445 (30960) for ; Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:46:18 -0500 (EST) From: Newlan2dl@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <103.25589445.2b67732a@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Tue, 28 Jan 2003 00:46:18 EST Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Equivalent foam from ACS.... X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 7.0 for Windows US sub 10637 Divinycell H-80 is 5 lb/cubic foot and will pretty much double your compressive strength and modulus. Do you know if they were using Rohacell then? Another option is to use ultralight density aerospace grade balsa core. This is 4-5 lb/cu ft. density and is off the scale strength wise compared to foams. I would specify the AL-600 coating also which helps prevent excessive resin absorbtion. You will find that NOTHING beats balsa for toughness, compressive strength and high modulus. It is still the standard for aircraft floor panels for airlines. As an aside, the earliest failures in the floor panels were caused by women's high heels (remember when airline travel was glamorous and everyone got dressed to the nines?) and the food carts causing core shear failures. Balsa fixed that and has yet to be beaten. It comes in all the standard thicknesses. There were incredible loads placed on the end of a spike heel! And if you have to sand a side after bonding you will remove the AL-600 coating so be sure to hot coat it with epoxy or whatever resin you are using. This is to prevent excessive resin absorbtion which can lead to resin starvation in the fabric and incredibly low peel values. Like you can peel it off with your fingers. You can get it in small quantities of this balsa (from Baltek) at Fiberglass Hawaii in Watsonville, California near Santa Cruz. They also have good prices on all kinds of fabrics and resins. Probably anything you need materials wise plus gloves, mixing equipment, etc. Sorry I don't have their number here with me, it's at the office. And one fiberglassing tip of the day. If you have to sand fiberglass or carb on, (I find carbon itchier than glass), spread some barrier cream on your exposed skin before you start. It washes off with water and prevents most of the dust from getting in your pores thus ALMOST eliminates itching. Available at hardware stores, one brand is "Liquid glove" but there are all kinds. And most don't wash off in acetone or MEK. Good building! Dan Newland Super ES