Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 07:19:42 -0500 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from sccrmhc03.attbi.com ([204.127.202.63] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0.2) with ESMTP id 1912053 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 15 Dec 2002 14:47:10 -0500 Received: from attbi.com (12-248-100-31.client.attbi.com[12.248.100.31]) by sccrmhc03.attbi.com (sccrmhc03) with SMTP id <20021215194654003006mbhve>; Sun, 15 Dec 2002 19:46:54 +0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <3DFCDC2F.CAF418A3@attbi.com> X-Original-Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2002 13:46:55 -0600 From: Harry League X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.79 [en] (Windows NT 5.0; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Original-To: Lancair Mailing List Subject: Re: [LML] Windshield Goo References: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------5C59336E0E81A80726D91A1E" --------------5C59336E0E81A80726D91A1E Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill, I used to race sailboats in international competitions against some pretty knowledgeable sailors. Because we borrowed boats a lot, we had to "personalize" things. Duct tape and masking tape were the two least permanent ways to attach things we needed for that race or regatta; keep in mind that boats were often switched in round robin style to even the field. The tape secured things to the Fiberglas, the metal spars, the windows/ports, the lifelines, etc. When returning the boats to their grateful owners, we always used WD40 to remove the goo which had accumulated over the course of the regatta. The trick is to spray the WD40 on and let it sit for a while- longer if the tape goo has hardened. Then take a clean paper towel and scoop the melted goo off, taking pains to see that it is scooped up and off and not merely smeared. It might take several towels and maybe even more than one application of WD40 to get the job done. In the end we would use 409, Fantastic or just plain soap and water to remove the WD40 film residue or if it was metal, just left the residue to form a protective barrier. Use it it works and is less of a hazard than avgas. Hopes this helps. Harry League IVPT one of these days Billhogarty@aol.com wrote: > > Rumor has it that masking tape goo on the windows can be removed with > a small amount of 100LL. Another rumor says that WD40 will do the > trick. Can anyone verify or disprove? Thanks, Bill Hogarty --------------5C59336E0E81A80726D91A1E Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Bill,

I used to race sailboats in international competitions against some pretty knowledgeable sailors.   Because we borrowed boats a lot, we had to "personalize" things.   Duct tape and masking tape were the two least permanent ways to attach things we needed for that race or regatta; keep in mind that boats were often switched in round robin style to even the field.   The tape secured things to the Fiberglas, the metal spars, the windows/ports, the lifelines, etc.   When returning the boats to their grateful owners, we always used WD40 to remove the goo which had accumulated over the course of the regatta.   The trick is to spray the WD40 on and let it sit for a while- longer if the tape goo has hardened.   Then take a clean paper towel and scoop the melted goo off, taking pains to see that it is scooped up and off and not merely smeared.   It might take several towels and maybe even more than one application of WD40 to get the job done.   In the end we would use 409, Fantastic or just plain soap and water to remove the WD40 film residue or if it was metal, just left the residue to form a protective barrier.   Use it it works and is less of a hazard than avgas.   Hopes this helps.

Harry League
IVPT one of these days

Billhogarty@aol.com wrote:

 
Rumor has it that masking tape goo on the windows can be removed with a small amount of 100LL.  Another rumor says that WD40 will do the trick.  Can anyone verify or disprove? Thanks, Bill Hogarty
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