Return-Path: Received: from imo28.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.72]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.5.1 release 219 ID# 0-52269U2500L250S0V35) with ESMTP id com for ; Mon, 18 Jan 1999 02:04:48 -0500 Received: from Tunimoreno@aol.com by imo28.mx.aol.com (IMOv18.1) id INDRa23166 for ; Mon, 18 Jan 1999 02:05:56 -0500 (EST) From: Tunimoreno@aol.com Message-ID: <91b3d84c.36a2dd54@aol.com> Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 02:05:56 EST To: lancair.list@olsusa.com Subject: Fuel tank leaks - the search X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I wrote a long piece in the Lancair Fast Packs on fuel tank leaks a few years ago, but subsequently others have come up with better ideas. Start as suggested with the tank caps (use Saran wrap, see below), vents, etc. Bubbles work fine, but it turns out not all leaks make bubbles due to the shape of the leak, flow rate (large leaks blow the water solution off), type of soap used, and the orientation (horizontal or vertical - vertical is much harder due to run off). Bottom line best results are obtained if you use kiddies' bubble- making solution. It's a lot better than soapy water, and if you sponge on the solution and then put on a thin layer of Saran wrap or equivalent, squeegee out the bubbles, and look for the bulges as the leak bleeds air out you have the best method for vertical surfaces, fuel caps, etc. On the Lancair IV, the chronic worst leak location was the leading edge because of the porosity of the prepreg, tight curvature, and because the vertical surface would not hold solution in place even after multiple passes with a sponge. Using the Saran wrap trick compensates for the run off of water solution and quickly disclosed leaks not visible after hours of searching. The other toughie is the remote leak that runs down a rib/skin intersection and exits at a point some inches away. I had one of these that exited in a closed bay, had to cut through the skin to get to it, and used bubbles to localize looking internally with a mirror. What a bitch. The fix is to put vacuum on the tank and suck in some runny micro (a syringe helps). Release the vacuum before you suck the micro all the way in leaving a micro-lined passage way to leak later on. Don't forget that pressurizing the tank causes the temperature to rise a bit, and the tank pressure will cool as it sits over night reducing temperature. Figure about a 1% reduction in total pressure for every 5 degrees F temperature. For reference, remember an atmosphere is about 30 inches of mercury, or about 420 inches of water. Pressurizing to plus one psi equals about 27 inches of water so the total pressure will be about 447 inches of water. A 5 degree F drop would reduce the pressure 4.47 inches of water or about a third of an inch of mercury or about one-sixth of a psi. Not negligible. Once I got my tanks tight (a two week battle) the pressure gage was good thermometer. Hope this helps. Fred Moreno