Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 09:21:55 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from fire.phys.cmu.edu ([128.2.26.129] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.5.9) with ESMTP id 1173733 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:07:34 -0400 Received: from localhost (jbp@localhost) by fire.phys.cmu.edu (8.11.6/8.11.6) with ESMTP id g3NC6n625357 for ; Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:06:49 -0400 X-Original-Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 08:06:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Jeffery Peterson X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net Subject: Re: paint question In-Reply-To: X-Original-Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Bill, >Does anyone know if the WLS primer can be applied with a >roller? If so, what type of roller? i have used WLS with rollers and by spraying. i prefer the spray technique because i can keep building up layers in the low areas by adding up to 5 spray coats. with the roller it is harder to build up. i found i made much faster progress after i got the spray setup. when i say build up i mean oh, maybe 5 mils. low spots deepeer than that should be corrected with micro to save weight. or just left low if weight is more important to you than finish quality. i dont seem to have any pinholes in the WLS coats, but that may be because i filled the weave with micro and a squeegee, then sanded with a very straight sanding board (several times) i sand the primer with the sanding board as well. when you can sand and area with the board and not sand through anywhere, but also not leave any spot unsanded, then you are done. i have a few small areas where i needed to make a 1/8 inch correction. ouch. there I overcoated the micro with a sheet of glass cloth to prevent the micro from cracking. one more thing. i tried automotive urathane hi-build primer and hated it. too soft. ended up sanding it all off. I like WLS. hard but flexible. good luck. -Jeff Peterson N273CK (lnc2 90%)