Return-Path: Received: from marvkaye.olsusa.com ([205.245.9.245]) by truman.olsusa.com (Post.Office MTA v3.1.2 release (PO203-101c) ID# 0-44819U2500L250S0) with SMTP id AAA21665 for ; Sun, 1 Nov 1998 07:47:40 -0500 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.19981101074530.030e7304@olsusa.com> Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 07:45:30 -0500 To: lancair.list@olsusa.com From: "William T Bartlett" (by way of Marvin Kaye ) Subject: Air Filter X-Mailing-List: lancair.list@olsusa.com Mime-Version: 1.0 <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> << Lancair Builders' Mail List >> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >> I made a wooden block the same size as the front of my intake duct (I don't know what a duct to a 320/360 looks like). I made sure the angle of the opening had the same relation to the sides of the block as the duct had. I formed 1/4"hardware cloth around the block and soldered it. This wire cage goes on the outside of the duct and extends about an inch back. I then pulled some filter material from Boeing around the outside of the cage and tie wrapped it in place and cut off the excess. the foam pushes against the cowl opening, but allows independent movement. There is no way the filter foam can be sucked through the hardware cloth cage. I change this every 50 hrs. I see no vibration wear on the cage and little on the fiberglass duct from the cage. I noticed the outside filters of the Honeywell room air look like the same as the stuff I got from Boeing, but have a sticky substance on their surface and are cheap. One Honeywell outside filter would make enough filter elements for about 4000 hrs of flying. I tried cleaning a used Honeywell filter with a shop vacuum, but the sticky stuff kept the dust stuck to it. The vacuum would not pick up the filter material, which means it has very little resistance to air. Bill N7WB