Neil, I feel the same way. It's borderline at 200 cub inch for me with this heat. I'd be fine flying in Canada vs Florida. With time and better cowl design / streamline, I think I can get it to work better. But right now, I might have to look for something closer to a new rad in 250 cub inch range.
Charlie, I changed the video from private to unlisted. Sorry for that. I also believe it's the same size of Tracy's. We figured if it can cool a 20B, it should cool a 13B. BUT I know my cowl design / inlets are not streamlined to perfection like his is. I monitor both the oil pan and inlet. Yes the oil pan is the hottest, which is why I want to monitor it. Conventional oil starts to break down at 250F. Synthetic will go well into the 300s. Then I monitor the inlet temperature because that is critical to the engine. Racing Beat says 205 inlet but that seems pretty conservative. My personal opinion is you atleast want the oil to hit 220+ during takeoff in the pan to burn off any water. Then come down during cruise.
Bobby, I have a digital manometer with tubes and a home hvac one with a fan to measure pressure. Say the leaf blower was 40kts at the inlet, I'd get around 9kts at the front of cooler to 6kts at the back. Crude testing right now, but no dead spots. In the air, playing around 120-130kts IAS.
Steve, perfect. I think I'm going to get that. Then as I narrow down on tinkering, I can try to fine tune my cowl to get the CX racing oil cooler to work for better speeds.
Finn, I have my inlet oil temp in the same place. I also don't fully trust it myself from being a bit heat soaked, and am thinking of mounting the sensor on the oil filter. I think getting the inlet oil under 200F in cruise would be ideal. 190F would be perfect. 200F I'd be happy with.