Rich,

 

If you are not using sump oil injection then I doubt you will ever see any carbon build up. We run our engines at high rpm. You start two stroke at a mixture around 1oz per gallon. Then reduce that amount until you stop making sump oil. I was still make sump oil at .8oz per gallon but didn’t reduce any further. With the constant speed prop and super charger I could run lean mixtures and 30-32” MP for hours at a time. I wanted extra oil in fuel. A little water through the intake will not hurt. I ran water injection for takeoff above 35” MP during the Texas summer. 100cc per minute. A freshly overhauled engine should have zero carbon buildup.

 

Bobby

 

From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 10:31 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in

 

Head still breaking-in

Len, just to clarify,

Do you mean to put an additional 1/2 oz per gal conventional oil in the already added premix (about 1.5 oz total pre and conventional oil?).

Additionally in a newly overhauled engine do you still recommend the water technique to get rid of the carbon created by the break-in period of the oil mixture.

Additionally additionally is standard oil miscible with both pre-mix and fuel?

Additionally additionally  and as well---Do you think that the water treatment should be done periodically and if  so how often?  When I rebuilt my motor after only about 14K the rotors had significant carbon (which was a bit#h to remove.) perhaps to do the water as a prophylactic treatment.

Thanks again again, again

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, Jun 28, 2020 12:49 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Renesis break-in

Cheap conventional oil in the premix at about 1/2 ounce per gallon as well as in the crank case. The round rings are oil scrapers and are supposed to keep crank case oil out of the combustion chamber, same as a piston engine. Do not tell anybody about this.......with a warm engine at 2,000 RPM...slowly add 1 cup of water to the intake over several minutes. It will remove all of the carbon from the rotor face and free up sticking apex seals in most cases.  Works on piston engines as well....like MAGIC. Saves hours of scraping. On street cars it will plug up the reactor.....with carbon crap...........

You didn't hear it here..............Lynn E Hanover

In a message dated 6/28/2020 12:47:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

On reading my last post, I just realized that the side seals (circular) are indeed lubricated by crank case oil  so the first part of my question was self-answered.

That still leaves the pre-mix question.

Sorry for the multiple stream-of-consciousness questions.

Rich

In a message dated 6/28/2020 11:43:51 AM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

Rethinking my last post,

I just realized that the typical rotary, in automotive use uses crankcase oil for seal lubrication.

In my assembly, I will be using pre-mix in the fuel. the crankcase oil will  never see the chambers (if I am lucky).

Any advice from you or other on this list what to use for break-in pre-mix?

Since the bearings, bushing and eccentric shaft have been relatively untouched, (14K on engine since rebuild) it seems as synthetic in the case would be OK however, the rotors seem to have different needs on break-in

Rich

In a message dated 6/27/2020 12:08:01 PM Central Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

I used a Texaco fleet oil for two hours at 2000 RPM. Then dump the oil and check the filter paper for metal.

Then 40 or 50 weight Redline racing oil. Never over 180 degrees on the coolant.  Then a lap at part throttle then good for 9,600 RPM at full throttle. No oil related failures in 35 years of racing.

You could do 4 hours at 2000 RPM no load or part load on fleet oil. Should be plenty. Never over 180 degrees.

It worked for me...............Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 6/27/2020 10:00:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

So I Googled break-in procedures for the RX8.

Less than 4000RPM for the first 600-1000 miles.

I don't see that happening. I don't think I can keep the RV-4 level at

less than 4,500 RPM, depending on prop.

And I sure want full power at takeoff and climb to pattern altitude.

I guess I could run it on the ground for 10 hours at varying RPMs below

4000, but really?

What did you do with a new Renesis?

Finn

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