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I agree about the oliker clamps. They make a nice fit but are often awkward to get the tool in place.
I use AN fittings with SS braid hose for all the main oil and coolant hoses. Expensive but not compared to the overall cost of the project. I use worm clamps for the smaller hoses like overflow bottles etc. I have never had an issue with them loosening.
Dave Leonard
I have in the past, used crimp style clamps and punch-lok clamps as I'm not crazy over worm gear clamps, but I'm now fully back to using worm gear clamps. I don't recommend punch-lok clamps as it requires a hammer strike to set them and that just feels wrong. But the biggest argument in favour of worm gear clamps is the ease of field repairs. Crimp clamps don't lend themselves well to this. And in tight quarters, while it may be possible to reach in with a tool to squeeze the clamp, it can sometimes be quite difficult to have room to either twist off or cut the clamp off for removal. Due to my nature of always changing and experimenting, this is a definite advantage of worm gear clamps. Even if the install is intended to be permanent in design, hoses can and do age, so at some point removing the clamp is inevitable.
Anybody try Oetiker crimp style clamps?
Nothing to unscrew there.
From: "Ernest Christley echristley@att.net" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2020 12:23 PM
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Radiator Clamp Question
Also, in the past, I have turned the screw so the slot is parallel to the hose, then wrapped safety wire through the slot, around the screw housing and under the threaded end of the screw.
If it's a worm clamp bend free end over screw, will not loosen.
Good Morning,
Question for the group ...
Has anyone experienced a clamp in the cooling system loosening over time due to vibration?
Do you safety wire them?
Use a particular type of clamp (such as Oetiker) to avoid this situation?
What's the recommendation?
T Mann
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