Not exactly. The radiator is surly a big restriction to flow. In a case where the water pump can force a bit too much water through the radiator per second, then the problem arises. The pump establishes a differential pressure in the system so that flow will occur. So, the pressure side of the pump produces higher pressure, and the suction side produces a lower pressure. So long as the low pressure side combined with a high enough pressure stays below the boiling point of water (or coolant) there is no problem. In high school we pulled a vacuum on a jug half full of water. Plugged up the inlet of the jug. Now put your hand on the side of the jug......the water boils where ever you touch the jug. But how is this possible says the teacher??? Water boils at 100C or 212F.......The answer is that both pressure and temperature determine the boiling point of water.
So, that 100C or 212F is only good at sea level............or 14.7 PSI And nowhere else.......So how much heat must I add, or how much pressure must I remove to get boiling on the inlet side of my pump?
Why, not much at all.
If you are already at 190 degrees some people think 200 degrees is not outlandish.....Just put your hand on the jug......and Presto....boiling. It is difficult to come up with a new way to destroy a rotary engine. There are some who seem to be working on just that. Years ago we raced a RX-2 with a junk engine in it. The driver was doing well following a Corvette. A misplace end wrench fell out of the Corvette and went through out radiator.
The coolant blew out in a lap. The driver (ODed on brain chemicals) did not notice the pegged temp gage and later the no temp on the same gage. Finished the race (about 20 miles at full throttle). Came into the pits and turned off the engine...........no good. Engine is white hot. Running on glow plugs (what was left of the spark plug tips) I had him hold the brakes and declutch in 4th gear. Engine stopped....and screeched and whistled
and moaned for about 15 minutes............ The pulleys the crank and plug wires were OK....nothing else.
So, a legally dead rotary may be better than a badly hurt Lycoming. when the power goes away, airspeed, hit nearest. leave on full throttle, announce your intentions, fly the plane. You got the engine from a junk yard.
You are renting the plane from an insurance company.Only you cannot be replaced with a phone call.......................
So. water make up bottle as in RX-2 RX-3 RX-4. Stant (lever) pressure cap 22 to 26 pounds. 10% glycol
in distilled water. 1/2 teaspoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent. Change coolant often and insides will be clean and less difficult to cool. Oil coolers should be way too big with too much air supply.
The engines are about 28% efficient. So the rest of all of those BTUs must be removed by your cooling systems. (and the exhaust system).
There may be no truth at all in the above and below information. My guess is as good as yours.
LEH
In a message dated 6/11/2020 7:30:03 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes: