Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #65733
From: lehanover lehanover@aol.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: First engine run -- prop or not?
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 04:14:36 +0000 (UTC)
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Starting is not such a big deal for used engines. Make sure that the throttle butterfly actually closes all the way so you can shut it off with the throttle.  Best oil you can afford. Spin it up with the ignition off and the plugs out. In order to prove oil pressure. Plugs in, ignition on. A friend watching for leaks you with one hand on the ignition switch. Throttle closed. Spin it up at idle. Prime is good as there will be little vaporization at first.
(big cold combustion chamber). Also there are many compression leaks producing low compression and then low heat of compression to help vaporization. The early cars had a bottle for antifreeze that went in with the fuel to take frost off of the seals and take up space to increase compression and aid sealing.

For new engines, spin up as above to produce oil pressure, but do it a number of times over a whole day.
I use a Texaco fleet oil which had low film strength. Run the engine for a total of 2 hours at 2,000 RPM no load.
Stay below 190 degrees coolant. Cut open the oil filter to look for any form of debris. If it is a Fram filter strike yourself on the head with a hammer. Friends don't let friends buy Fram filters for anything, ever.

Dump the fleet oil. replace with the best oil you can afford. I use 40 or 50 weight RedLine racing oil.
Never lost an engine to an oil problem.

My Race engines use a flex plate for starting and a 5 1/4" flywheel and clutch cover and lightened rotors. As close to no load as you can get. Never a problem. Look at the revs first, then one half second later, at the oil pressure.

Make a check list and then use it.............No Prop is my vote.....A kid drove a starter cart through the prop on a SkyRaider on the Forrestal Just his leggs escaped.........Ruined the prop and required an engine change......no prop.for me.........

Our first Mazda was a stock RX-2 with a junk yard engine. It was the Great Pumpkin Last race at Nelsons Ledges race track Near Warren Ohio in late October. Below freezing. To start it I poured in 1/2 cup of hot coffee and 1/2 cup of motor oil into the stock 4 barrel carb.  Lots of smoke and the crowd went wild to see such a thing. It started every time..................

....Lynn E. Hanover

In a message dated 5/21/2020 4:28:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lancaironline.net writes:

I've put over 10hrs on the bench without a prop on. Kept the revs under 5000. No issues here, good for debugging and modifications on the fly. You have the psru on, fly wheel, water pump, alt, so a bit of a load anyways.

There are some Mazda manuals on break in procedures in cars. Basically don't sit at one rpm for a long time. Everyone will give you their opinion on breaking procedures. Some say to start it up and drive it like you stole it, some say to baby it.



- Matt Boiteau

On Thu, May 21, 2020, 09:24 Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
1) Without prop any vibration will be from engine and PSRU and can
inspect engine (leaks, etc.) with no fear of prop.

2) With prop less chance of over rev and some cooling air through rads
and oil cooler.

What do you think?

Finn



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