X-Junk-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Analysis: v=2.3 cv=G+5i7Os5 c=1 sm=1 tr=0 a=/A7wSTOFXNEXWyNq5ILclA==:117 a=jpOVt7BSZ2e4Z31A5e1TngXxSK0=:19 a=x7bEGLp0ZPQA:10 a=Fee85h93u3AA:10 a=XobE76Q3jBoA:10 a=DK2GG6i_IL4A:10 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=on22okXAAAAA:8 a=x-75qrxFAAAA:8 a=7g1VtSJxAAAA:8 a=gh-v4m58TpWY9959iKIA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=4dD1_qPv2cwA:10 a=Qa1je4BO31QA:10 a=xDOOTrvONMwA:10 a=gvSQh4r-fQ0A:10 a=phg6BF-BWHFbbAsrnXYA:9 a=zrjX9Wwwm1C12YWV:21 a=Urk15JJjZg1Xo0ryW_k8:22 a=NPqpj5bUEVj9vR1HIonK:22 a=pSfGKr4syse1NfsQC3dY:22 a=grOzbf7U_OpcSX4AJOnl:22 From: "lehanover lehanover@aol.com" Received: from sonic306-3.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com ([74.6.132.42] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2.14) with ESMTPS id 13023956 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 02 Oct 2019 20:22:05 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=74.6.132.42; envelope-from=lehanover@aol.com DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=aol.com; s=a2048; t=1570062108; bh=SRlH8DU6xiQvJK/ehbPWRlj2MAjL8xMdg8ZSlThKYkM=; h=Date:From:To:In-Reply-To:References:Subject:From:Subject; b=R8aoJImSgS+/fC/A5y2B/GcxHSPaRPIkt3VmewcYXSTEQU3ntTLiHKAkYNDAJU2flowARUYnDEe6PgN1sD2G7T3wVObRkdV0/DEZ8BzRKlCsEdv/mA6a7TmSSpf87AgAhMPDfeJfiGW28eUDJ+jZFySIlKnsr3ovjGkt3hfgSS8WZAWfDNJl2L7raMzz3B/sd9FIaUxJeSR/ZyAei6nSv7HxCqPrBpNOFTvzpKtv4qSWam03cth6Lkl/xKQxTWvIi0f4t+ORXASKBvuHzlUcdwQ5dJyRGQ9ZxPS3couTyEH0Wl4spVg5KcncPxdt7+S4UBDhy7xzUe09sLDZkgxjkw== X-YMail-OSG: K3BV5PMVM1mUmGAPn3z0.p0YoUGlnUhcEIJcNJcv6_sWirURsxaAxoJjl9USpl1 VSYRt3oj8xs8xYlEohBBBZTDKa9xGw4JuhR7H1qeUiT9CsgqsENxoEdYTBSoMcpx6nalDi9MX3dJ S7evdxUbevMKpQi1TZ8HB8viVevJboSU8h4HrXQPQT2xnqWJlhgKWaFVoEKhilhwDUjKe3bNy1JQ gvFQAYCVBI2xhDVvt0.uDEzbHvIdfyv5ofJkpYW_NIZV_opfwKlt52d4SrxGVwmoailwCZsNXtm0 PMTve.CPuALV1WsRrJL53OFSsQBcg5RqwSjTy.n2wx0UIGl0eIlY8kzTCnVL.bpOvCdz.TYii4Ns d9Pxwdao6FIRzn6P9Tqsisom4qydr1repOasqn8j66cHlEfh5LObf.EoiNOXoTsKoj9Bsg1S0wJu GO28ARXdYUuzmlGy6VdqsnIjyR6aZn94bnih73huTM89hAYnrg1sLWdKtfLynNqCQhDLe.rDE.gV 5dyB76wk_9TvNte886_3X.ZHN9MjwdPdizVXrwTcQ2pbELNFUJA3tJe1WFNnjKDAar6GbYxqNmgb QwfA3OEVEG0poNljCyiA9mchl8GC7YNFAwORttbG_6UhAyJBHKZ7xa.6ez9px14MXwmLTjrzelQF b3qpGZvjAt2O8mLaH17MSn6nv7SiaBkVc3U_okD0b7qpylVQeUdDKNsMDahJVfocFZFTE2JBB5fC hO.3eZ.egRQ4QsCx8qs.2ZfvUAstQ2DjdVfoSv0DRtP6tpB7tiRKb9WAvz9J4Gy0mt.CO5rz9uKx GgbxpmMklYGXg_fCFBJ6Lmj2m8CY3JNN9aoVUpXIXLFAjlrlq6kAPkfqdMudPj3zWKBaapJ.uP41 lr.zfCCPlYGVwtT8tHJkAEeFATeamIayYFK45vFM29CEPsKoJM0wiQZiLu.1ducYMsVLVODd0sGd K4.2AqiPRukfCC1E7vFQ7FbZBqF2U_xyRYXaZSeDq9J1Y7XVBNIbQRB8MMf5CxFUwUvzo5kasik1 K_ITURgAImCuQq1JPDqkjN1cQ6Y5z4bG2pb5eOR8QHa_P4Rd0G6DWjnOh81ho0N1XBvFnr6v73ng ldmgBkloNlneHTKpRF3e4qs4Odlo0Jv662JuwMTI7cz8AeNCeQeVh7e.KEyJkbBmAQEZaurtf6FH imqPXCShD.9TDfn7IrHZS3FOilh8iGtx7u_ydZFD1ynrExoDwWTMQL4n_l9eBY6lbEHXXMe3S3.m yKuW.GgIi1bwvWJ5D Received: from sonic.gate.mail.ne1.yahoo.com by sonic306.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com with HTTP; Thu, 3 Oct 2019 00:21:48 +0000 Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 00:21:47 +0000 (UTC) To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message-ID: <1153038028.1846143.1570062107140@mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Rebuilt and stuck apex seal MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_Part_1846142_451249268.1570062107138" X-Mailer: WebService/1.1.14448 aolloki Apache-HttpClient/4.5.7 (Java/1.8.0_144) Content-Length: 11349 ------=_Part_1846142_451249268.1570062107138 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I use cold wheel bearing grease to assemble rotors. Holds things in place d= uring build. Once the front housing and center iron is on. Use clamps on studs or heavy = rubber bands to hold the irons tight to keep pressure on those small bits t= o hold them in place. Leave it on until the case bolts are in and torqued. I use solid corner seals. I have found many broken rubber center corners in= stock engines. It was a gag to get good sealing on new engines to pass the= Peoples Republic of California CARB rules. Many folks use silk threads to hold things in place when installing the fro= nt rotor. I rotate the engine to horizontal and install the front rotor wit= h nothing but grease holding the parts and no thread at all. Once the rotor= is in place, then rotate the engine to nose down again and complete constr= uction. Add the rotor housing with the grease holding the seals in place. I= nstall both dowels. Clamp the housing as above with camps and rubber bands = on wood pegs inserted into the ports and over intake studs or temp bolts in= housing. Insert apex seals and springs into slots and push all the way dow= n. I like to have the small end pieces where I can see them and be sure the= y have not popped loose the super glue. Those little devils like to escape = unnoticed and ruin your day. Or better yet is to use either solid carbon ap= ex seals or even better yet use one piece ceramic seals.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I had = a little "S" shaped flat stock piece to hold the crank up high but still in= the front bearing clamped to the engine stand. Usually some eager help is = worse than no help at all at this juncture. Then slip out the dowelsand tur= n the center iron 90 degrees and slip it over the crank. Then lower the cra= nk and rotate the center iron to align properly and install the dowels agai= n. Clamp or rubber band the center iron to the front iron and repeat as abo= ve for the rear rotor. Torque the case bolts with anti-seize on the threads= in three cycles to the low end of the torque spec and let sit overnight. N= ext day, in the proper sequence, torque again by First loosening each bolt = and cranking it down to the low end of the prescribed torque range in seque= nce. Not all at once,one at a time. If you mark a line on each head, say al= l pointing straight up. The next day after loose and tight again notice tha= t in every case the bolt has moved beyond straight up. So, if you left it a= s torqued as the day before where was it torqued to after 50 hours? 100 hou= rs? Just trying to help. Never lost one in 25 years of racing. Lynn E. Hano= ver =20 Lycomings swallow valves and start giant fires from holes in the piston and= then the case. Or if you are lucky just the crank breaks and the prop leav= es the area. Look in the scrap dumpster behind an airplane engine builder. = Take a friend to drive you home. Men can cry. Don't be ashamed. Now think a= bout what the planes looked like that those pieces were in. In a message dated 10/2/2019 8:49:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@la= ncaironline.net writes: Hi Matt.Sorry to hear of your setback.I to would have been flying many year= s ago If had gone the Lyc path. But I am finally in Phase 1 after 13 years = and its looking good. Cheers Steve > On 2 Oct 2019, at 7:57 pm, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com wrote:> > Hi Matt, sorry to hear about your troubles and t= he broken corner seal.=C2=A0 Was it the "solid" type or the one with a rubb= er insert?> I went the solid type from Atkins Rotary on my last rebuild.=C2= =A0 https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/86-95-Rx7-2mm-Solid-Corner-Seal-Set-= ARE88.html> Jeff> > Corner seal broke in two. Rotor housing looks good, ape= x seals look good, but front rotor is toast. I could of been flying a few y= ears ago, if I didn't go down this Rotary path....> > - Matt Boiteau> > > >= --> Homepage:=C2=A0 http://www.flyrotary.com/> Archive and UnSub:=C2=A0 ht= tp://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html --Homepage:=C2=A0 http://www.flyrotary.com/Archive and UnSub:=C2=A0 http://= mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html ------=_Part_1846142_451249268.1570062107138 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I use cold wheel bearing grease to assemble rotors. H= olds things in place during build.
Once the front housing and center iron is on. Use cla= mps on studs or heavy rubber bands to hold the irons tight to keep pressure= on those small bits to hold them in place. Leave it on until the case bolt= s are in and torqued.

I use solid corner seals. I have found many broken ru= bber center corners in stock engines. It was a gag to get good sealing on n= ew engines to pass the Peoples Republic of California CARB rules.

Many folks use silk threads to hold things in place w= hen installing the front rotor. I rotate the engine to horizontal and insta= ll the front rotor with nothing but grease holding the parts and no thread = at all. Once the rotor is in place, then rotate the engine to nose down aga= in and complete construction. Add the rotor housing with the grease holding= the seals in place. Install both dowels. Clamp the housing as above with c= amps and rubber bands on wood pegs inserted into the ports and over intake = studs or temp bolts in housing. Insert apex seals and springs into slots an= d push all the way down. I like to have the small end pieces where I can se= e them and be sure they have not popped loose the super glue. Those little = devils like to escape unnoticed and ruin your day. Or better yet is to use = either solid carbon apex seals or even better yet use one piece ceramic sea= ls.   I had a little "S" shaped flat stock piece to hold the cran= k up high but still in the front bearing clamped to the engine stand. Usual= ly some eager help is worse than no help at all at this juncture. Then slip= out the dowels
and turn the center iron 90 degrees and slip it over = the crank. Then lower the crank and rotate the center iron to align properl= y and install the dowels again. Clamp or rubber band the center iron to the= front iron and repeat as above for the rear rotor. Torque the case bolts w= ith anti-seize on the threads in three cycles to the low end of the torque = spec and let sit overnight. Next day, in the proper sequence, torque again = by First loosening each bolt and cranking it down to the low end of the pre= scribed torque range in sequence. Not all at once,
one at a time. If you mark a line on each head, say a= ll pointing straight up. The next day after loose and tight again notice th= at in every case the bolt has moved beyond straight up. So, if you left it = as torqued as the day before where was it torqued to after 50 hours? 100 ho= urs? Just trying to help. Never lost one in 25 years of racing. Lynn E. Han= over

Lycomings swallow valves and start giant fires from h= oles in the piston and then the case. Or if you are lucky just the crank br= eaks and the prop leaves the area. Look in the scrap dumpster behind an air= plane engine builder. Take a friend to drive you home. Men can cry. Don't b= e ashamed. Now think about what the planes looked like that those pieces we= re in.

In a message dated 10/2/2019 8:49:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@la= ncaironline.net writes:

Hi Matt.
Sorry to hear of your setback.
I to would have been flying many years ago If had gone the= Lyc path.
But I am finally in Phase 1 after 13 years and its looking= good.

Cheers

Steve

> On 2 Oct 2019, at 7:57 pm, Jeff Whaley jwhaley@datacast.com<= /a> <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Matt, sorry to hear about your troubles and the br= oken corner seal.  Was it the "solid" type or the one with a rubber in= sert?
> I went the solid type from Atkins Rotary on my last r= ebuild.  https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/86-95-Rx7-2mm-Solid-Corner-Seal-Set-= ARE88.html
> Jeff
>
> Corner seal broke in two. Rotor housing looks good, a= pex seals look good, but front rotor is toast. I could of been flying a few= years ago, if I didn't go down this Rotary path....
>
> - Matt Boiteau
>
>
>
> --


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