From: "Neil Unger 12348ung@gmail.com" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] 3D printing - Oil inlet
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2019 07:09:16 +1100
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Mat, the printer is impressive for sure.   I am not sure what you are 
trying to achieve with all this as I am getting the impression that like 
me you will lose years trying to get everything "right" . I  also have a 
shed full of flaps, adjustable inlets and outlets etc, all took many 
months to build.  At the end of the day you simply  want stable temps in 
the engine.  I have now gone back to a simple thermostat in the water 
line and the biggest  water and oil cooler I can fit.  All temp 
adjustments went away.  If the oil cooler is too big the water 
thermostat will correct that problem as well.  Just keep it simple (and 
cheap)  I recall Tracy'e wise words   " you are better to have a "good" 
(practical)  aircraft in the air, than the "perfect" plane still being 
modified and built".

This is just some of my self imposed bitter experience!

Neil.

On 1/7/2019 5:24 AM, Matt Boiteau mattboiteau@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Buying a 3D printer has opened up this whole experimental plane game. 
> SO much easier to autocad a drawing, then trying to fiberglass out of 
> foam and bondo. Bonus is, easy to make changes for version 1, 2, 3, 
> ... 15.
>
>
> I'm using an CX racing oil cooler. 30 Row, 11 x 9 X 2
> https://www.cxracing.com/oil-cooler-kit/OC-248-30-AN10
>
> To create a Kays & London wedge shape for the inlet, I could of used a 
> flat stock and called it a day. But really it's an 'S' shape to 
> maximize equal amount of air to flow across the rad. Plus I had to 
> make the wedge shape, turn into an 2.75" pipe opening for the scat 
> hose. I wanted to keep the bends like a trumpet, to maximize the air 
> sticking and following the sides without disturbance. Could of sanded 
> and shaped the pieces out of foam for days and days.. Or punch them 
> into autocad. 3D print the parts, then fiberglass overtop of the molds.
>
> The last two pictures (oil4 & oil5) are how I had to make the outlet, 
> with foam and bondo. I couldn't get good measurements around all the 
> pipes and motormounts, so I couldn't 3D draw it. Was easier this way, 
> to build it in place. Took 10x longer to build.
>
> The outlet has a large 5" box to catch the expanded hot air. Then it 
> necks it back down to a 2.75" outlet pipe. The idea is the speed the 
> air back up before it exits. I also added a butterfly valve to the 
> outlet, to be able to control the temps. This should help fine tune my 
> system (inlet, outlet, exhaust, cowl air exit), by watching how much 
> the valve needs to more to keep temps stable at different flight speeds.
>
> https://youtu.be/giueLT-icjI
>
> - Matt Boiteau
>
> --
> Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
> Archive and UnSub:   http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html

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    <p>Mat, the printer is impressive for sure.   I am not sure what you
      are trying to achieve with all this as I am getting the impression
      that like me you will lose years trying to get everything "right"
      . I  also have a shed full of flaps, adjustable inlets and outlets
      etc, all took many months to build.  At the end of the day you
      simply  want stable temps in the engine.  I have now gone back to
      a simple thermostat in the water line and the biggest  water and
      oil cooler I can fit.  All temp adjustments went away.  If the oil
      cooler is too big the water thermostat will correct that problem
      as well.  Just keep it simple (and cheap)  I recall Tracy'e wise
      words   " you are better to have a "good" (practical)  aircraft in
      the air, than the "perfect" plane still being modified and
      built".  <br>
    </p>
    <p>This is just some of my self imposed bitter experience!  <br>
    </p>
    <p>Neil.<br>
    </p>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/7/2019 5:24 AM, Matt Boiteau
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:mattboiteau@gmail.com">mattboiteau@gmail.com</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:list-12075044@logan.com">
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          <p style="color: margin-top: 10px;"><span style="font-size:
              10pt;line-height: 1.5">Buying a 3D printer has opened up
              this whole experimental plane game. SO much easier to
              autocad a drawing, then trying to fiberglass out of foam
              and bondo. Bonus is, easy to make changes for version 1,
              2, 3, ... 15.</span></p>
          <div style="font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
            <div id="__MailbirdStyleContent" style="font-size:
              10pt;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000"><br>
              I'm using an CX racing oil cooler. 30 Row, 11 x 9 X 2<br>
              <div><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.cxracing.com/oil-cooler-kit/OC-248-30-AN10">https://www.cxracing.com/oil-cooler-kit/OC-248-30-AN10</a></div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div>To create a Kays &amp; London wedge shape for the
                inlet, I could of used a flat stock and called it a day.
                But really it's an 'S' shape to maximize equal amount of
                air to flow across the rad. Plus I had to make the wedge
                shape, turn into an 2.75" pipe opening for the scat
                hose. I wanted to keep the bends like a trumpet, to
                maximize the air sticking and following the sides
                without disturbance. Could of sanded and shaped the
                pieces out of foam for days and days.. <span
                  style="font-size: 13.3333px">Or punch them into
                  autocad. 3D print the parts, then fiberglass overtop
                  of the molds.</span></div>
              <div><span style="font-size: 13.3333px;line-height: 20px"><br>
                </span>The last two pictures (oil4 &amp; oil5) are how I
                had to make the outlet, with foam and bondo. I couldn't
                get good measurements around all the pipes and
                motormounts, so I couldn't 3D draw it. Was easier this
                way, to build it in place. Took 10x longer to build.<br>
                <br>
                The outlet has a large 5" box to catch the expanded hot
                air. Then it necks it back down to a 2.75" outlet pipe.
                The idea is the speed the air back up before it exits. I
                also added a butterfly valve to the outlet, to be able
                to control the temps. This should help fine tune my
                system (inlet, outlet, exhaust, cowl air exit), by
                watching how much the valve needs to more to keep temps
                stable at different flight speeds.</div>
              <div><br>
                <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://youtu.be/giueLT-icjI">https://youtu.be/giueLT-icjI</a></div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
              <div class="mb_sig">- Matt Boiteau</div>
            </div>
          </div>
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      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">--
Homepage:  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.flyrotary.com/">http://www.flyrotary.com/</a>
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