Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 00:57:40 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-r09.mx.aol.com ([152.163.225.105] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.0b7) with ESMTP id 1736034 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 18 Sep 2002 00:20:35 -0400 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-r09.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v34.10.) id q.c3.29083c83 (2519) for ; Wed, 18 Sep 2002 00:20:26 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: X-Original-Date: Wed, 18 Sep 2002 00:20:26 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary]Re: Remove rear counterweight. X-Original-To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 9/17/2002 8:25:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, marv@lancaironline.net writes: > Fred, I found that wedging a pry bar between the counter weight and engine > such that a steady pressure is put on the counterweight and then rapping the > edge of the counter weight with a small 2 lb sledge hammer ( don't use a > regular hammer as it does not have the mass to do the job right and you'll > just bang up your counter weight). This has always worked for me (all of > the three or four tear downs I have done). > > Ed Anderson > Also, put the nut back on, but leave it loose a few turns. A liberated counterweight can travel quite a distance. I drive a very large square shank screw driver between the balance weight and a mounting bolt for the stationary gear. Then I heat the counter weight around the crank with a torch. Usually they just go "Bang" and pop right off. Striking the weight at a 90 degree angle to the crank will take anything off. Leaving the nut on also protects the threads in case you miss. Lynn E. Hanover