Message-ID: <027d01c4014a$a012a280$6401a8c0@Davidscmptr>
Reply-To: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-2909467@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: aluminum hose bungs/fittings
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 12:09:09 -0600
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Lynn,

Ref the e-mail below, what size OD or ID tube/fitting did you weld to the
A/C core?  I have my cores and, despite most others using existing tubing on
cores, I prefer 1" or more - I want "max flow".  I DON'T want to limit my
system from the outset by using fittings that are way below what is on the
car.

What do you think is the biggest I could weld on to a GM/Harrison core?

I might as well admit - I can't yet visualize all you described below -
could you give an overview of 'what you wanted to weld on' and what you were
cutting off?  Then I can figure out the rest from the e-mail.

David Carter

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Lehanover@aol.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Monday, December 29, 2003 10:03 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: aluminum hose bungs/fittings


> In a message dated 12/29/2003 8:52:56 AM Central Standard Time,
> 13brv3@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> << BTW, I still haven't officially decided if I want to use AN hose, or
just
>  good quality "heater hose".   I'll certainly keep AN hose for oil, but I
>  think heater hose is probably fine for water, especially with all my
>  possible plumbing methods.
>
>  Thanks,
>  Rusty (evap cores temporarily in place)
>
>   >>
>
> I once added a core as additional cooling on a GTP Jr Lola. The dash 16
hose
> end took up too much room and was too heavy. So, I made up two short pipes
in
> 6061-0 to weld to the core. I cut two shallow grooves in the hose area so
as
> to get a good grip. Then used two 1/4" hose clamps. One over each groove
for
> redundancy. The connection was made with a formed 90 piece of hose I found
at
> NAPA. It was about 1" inside and dirt cheap. For aircraft I would use the
blue
> silicone stuff. Pricey but great performance. Much lighter and more
compact.
>
> People that repair auto air conditioning often have cores that are faulty.
> Get a couple of these, or off of the core pile at the wrecking yard. That
is
> just aluminum parts to get melted. These are damaged and useless as parts,
but
> are generally sold for the price of scrap aluminum.
>
> I clamped the cores between two pieces of 3/4" plywood lined with sheets
of
> 1/4" filter foam. One piece of plywood was longer than the other so as to
work
> as a handle to clamp in the vice. Mine won't open far enough to grip
> everything together.
>
> Then Saw off the fittings with the core inverted. Drill a hole through a
> piece of 3/4" plywood with a hole saw. Clamp that piece of 3/4" plywood
across the
> area where you want the fitting hole and fasten that piece of plywood to
the
> clamping sheets with drywall screws. Drill through the plywood and into
the
> land area on the core. The plywood will guide the hole saw.
>
> Slip the hose of a shop vac over the other end fitting on the core and
blow
> air into the core while you drill into the core. You do the same on both
ends.
> Not a flake of aluminum will end up inside the core. Then debur the holes
> inside and out. Running the shop vac the whole time. And holding the core
inverted
> the whole time.
>
> If you make the fittings from scratch, you can leave a little welding
flange
> on the one end. Also, radius both inside ends to improve flow.
>
> Wrap the end of the core with a few layers of soaking wet towel while
welding
> on the fittings.
>
> Practice on the junk cores. Get good at it.
>
> The cores will have oil in them that circulates in the system to lubricate
> the compressor. Let them drain for a few days and the rinse them out with
ketone
> or similar and then soap and water. Blow it out to get it as dry as
possible
> before welding. If you short cut this step, be aware that the jet of
orange
> oil vapor flame that shoots out of the proposed fitting holes is about a
foot
> long and will blow your welding helmet clean off of your head.
>
> These things work well for water or oil cooling. They are tough as nails.
> (the GM stuff). If you have room, you can cut one side off of a bulkhead
fitting
> and use the hex as a welding flange. Better for oil cooling where the
fittings
> hose ends are going to be heavy anyway. For water service, the AN fittings
> and hose ends will be too big (dash 16 or 20) and too heavy.
>
> Mount the core in foam lined brackets. Don't let anything rub against them
> (but a foam seal strip).
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
>
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