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So are a lot of folks upgrading to the
20B?
Where are you finding your engines and to
those who don’t mind disclosing, what are you having to pay for a 20B
I have considered either the 20B or going
to a turbo on the Renesis for my Lancair Legacy. There are pros and cons
both way.
I would like to have an honest 250 HP here
and I really stress the honest. I would like to see a 250-270 HP takeoff
at sea level, and a cruise at 8K ft of close to 200 HP
Bill
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015
12:41 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions
for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System photo of bottom
Bobby,
Curious as to the serial # (A,B,C,D XXX) of your
20B.........I purchased Rob Johnson's
unused early (Before reinforced dowel area side plates) 20B serial
#A304 recently... He
purchased it in about 1997 for his Velocity and did not use
it..........Amazing how small a
package that 250+ hp is after removing about 100 lbs of turbos and
other unneeded parts
On Wed, May 13, 2015 at 11:02 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
wrote:
Kelly,
No weight and balance issues with the RV10 and 20B. The
aluminum plates would be nice but not in the budget.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015
11:17 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions
for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System photo of bottom
Bobby,
Can
your ship handle the extra weight or are you thinking of replacing some of
the iron side
plate with alum plates such as those from "Racing Beat" ?
On Wed, May 13,
2015 at 7:30 AM, Ed Anderson <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Well, I found that like anything else the Plugs up installation
has its pros and cons.
However, the only real con was the lack of vendor support for
Plugs Up.
Having the exhaust outlet on the bottom simplified plumbing, also
reduce chance of fuel from injectors falling directly on a hot exhaust.
No problem with flooding the engine. I did it a few times, but 4—5
revs of the engine pumped all the excess fuel out the exhaust ports and of
course the spark plug holes being on top did not collect fuel. It also
provided room under the cowl for longer intake runners – don’t know
if that would be the case with the 20B, but assume it would.
All in all, if I did it again, I would use plugs up everything
else being the same. Oh, yes, much easier to change the spark plugs { }
I did have to modify Tracy’s
PRSU mounting plate slightly – moving the starter position.
Good luck on your decision, Bobby – more power is always
hard to resist {)
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 8:04 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System
photo of bottom
Looks like a good arrangement. I’m still on the fence as
to installing the 20B I purchased a few weeks back. If I do make the swap
I’m considering plugs up as an option.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 4:50
PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions
for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System photo of bottom
Found this old photo of the bottom of the oil pan which may
help. The blue fitting is naturally the drain hole at the lowest part of
the sump.
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 3:39 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System
Thanks Ed. The standoff is not visible in the picture but I had
guessed you did something similar. Any issues with sealing the oil pickup
tube to the block off plate and front iron?
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 3:23
PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Questions
for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System
I believe the things you have the arrows pointing to are
triangular shaped braces that support the oil sump to the oil pan. The
are welded to top of sump and plate.
To access the bolts in the area of the sump, I stood the 4”x
4” tubing I used for the sump off from the pan about 1 – 1
1/2”. I did this by using a 1” x 1 1/2” rectangular
tube (its end’s plugged) welded to both the plate and the sump.
Then 3/4” dia (I think around 6 holes) holes were drilled through
plate, standoff and sump for the oil to return to the sump – probably
best to drill holes before welding components together, but they can be drilled
from the inside plate side – just make sure you get all shavings
out. This stand-off also gave you access to around 3-4 pan bolts.
Depending on your set up these may or may not be a pain to unscrew, but
it can be done.
The round tall blue tube served as oil fill tube and dip stick
tube. It was threaded internally at the top and a threaded plug with a hole
drilled in it for the dip stick was used.
The aluminum tubes were coolant (front) and air/oil separator
(which I took off after two years of flying with it and it collecting no oil,
because the rotary simply was not spitting any out.
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 2:57 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Questions for Ed Anderson- Plugs UP Oil System
Ed,
I have a couple of question about your plug up installation. How
do you access the oil pan bolts located behind the oil reservoir and allow for
oil drain back? Also I see what looks like an additional tube (black arrow) in
the attached photo. Can’t figure out what it’s for. Is it a
support bracket?
Thanks,
Bobby Hughes
--
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