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Some old posts referencing even older posts:
http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/Message/54134.html
20B was between 2nd and 3rd gen with features of both - IIRC, the
center-iron is NoLongerAvailable. Later model C/D versions were
more coveted for massive turbo installations.
Last I checked, the heavier 20B and 93-95 rear irons were still
available (new) if you really feel the need to change out a rear
iron - IIRC, both could work, 1 extra bolt on the 20B auto iron.
You used to be able to buy a 20B for 3-5k with all the fixin's long
block/front clip.
For 10K you could do an aftermarket 4rotor install and make everyone
drool ;)
Cheers
C
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More importantly to me, how do you ensure
you are getting a newer one when you buy an engine? I
have seen them for sale from importers in the $10k+
price range. Is there a particular year of Eunos Cosmo
engine to look for?
Marc.
What are the
numbers that indicate a later version?
Bill
From: Rotary motors in
aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
February 10, 2015 9:56 AM
To: Rotary motors in
aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]
Re: 20B Engines
There are 3 series of 20B engines
IIRC. The center housing and the crank on
some of the earlier versions was reported
to be a weak link……..later versions had
mods to some internal parts. I have a
later version of the 20B. You can tell
from the rotor housing engine numbers
(where the 20B is in black surround).
Marc
From: Rotary motors in
aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
Sent: Friday,
February 06, 2015 4:17 PM
To: Rotary motors in
aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]
Re: 20B Engines
Thanks
Mark........That is the info I was
looking for............I happen to have
a 13B Cosmo that has the later housings
and
I had only read about the reinforced
housings.........
I wouldn't
hesitate to use an early 20b.
The early 20b housings are
plenty robust enough for a/c
use. The beefier irons could
be an issue if you're building
a turbo race engine due to the
higher loads imposed during up
shifting and down shifting.
We don't experience any of
those loads.
I'm pretty
certain that my 20b is an early
model and I have not experienced
any issues with irons cracking
around the dowels. The weakest
area is along the inner walls of
the o-ring grooves nearest the
water jackets. If your o-rings
aren't to factory specs, you run
the risk of cracking an o-ring
wall which ruins the housing.
Been there, done that. If you
treat the engine with the same
care you would a certified a/c
engine, then you won't have any
trouble with longevity.
Mark
Mark Steitle or
other 20B Drivers,
I am
looking at a 20B that
looks to be an early one
before they added
additional
metal in the
dowel/oil passage area
of the iron housings
because of some that I
have
read developed
cracks in this area in
service in the autos I
presume.......
Can you
tell me if this a
potential problem for
the 20B in our aircraft
use ?.......Also
can you tell me
if your 20B has the
later reinforced
housings ?.........
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