Hi Dennis, I've only had occasion to remove the retainer one time and didn't have the right tooling to press it off so I destroyed the bearing retainer in the process. Any good machine shop should have the tooling so use whatever method they recommend. You can order replacement retainers at Mark Williams enterprises. Google will find contact info.
At 600 hours I would not be concerned about 5/8" total system lash if everything looks OK inside.
Tracy
Sent from my iPad
Tracy,
I hope you are doing well. I'm sorry I could not
attend the fly-in at Charlie England's. I really wanted to be there with all the
guys!
When running my Renesis powered RV -7A on the
ground at idle (1600 rpm) I noticed a random tick noise in the front bearing
area of the RD1 - C When prop rpm was increased to 2000 rpm the noise went away.
I removed the prop output shaft and had several mechanics inspect the bearing
and none thought it was bad. I have purchased a replacement bearing (MRC
#209SZZ) and still want to replace the bearing. The bearing has a bearing
retainer ring (part # 58505 R) pressed on the shaft against the bearing.
The machine shop wants to heat the 58505 R retainer and press it and the old
bearing off - then reuse the bearing retainer with the new bearing - is this OK
or should I get a new retainer? If I need a new retainer who supplies
them?
My prop gear lash has increased from about 3/8 in.
when new to about 5/8 in with 600 hrs. of run time. After disassembly of the
RD1- C it appears the input shaft spline has a very small amount of play between
it and the flex plate spline. Is this any problem? No noticeable play was found
in the planetary gear system.
Thanks,
Dennis Haverlah
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 8:11 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Re [Fly Rotary]:
start
Thanks very much Jeff
The engine is a Renesis 4 port, it was one of a batch of Mazda’s test
engines that a number of us here in Australia purchased.
We have done nothing to it internally as yet.
We have an expansion tank being welded up and when we install it
hopefully this weekend we will then pressure test and compression test to
ascertain primary engine health parameters.
Cheers
Steve Izett
Steve,
attached is the Hanover cooling system diagram … note all the cooling
elements (radiator, hoses, filler bottle) are completely full of glycol
(green); only the expansion tank (approx 1 litre, with stant lever cap) has
room for air, filled only about 1/3. The location of the expansion
tank is shown higher than everything else in the diagram but can actually be
located lower; what is important is the connections be as shown, i.e.,
highest point of saturated cooling system connects to bottom of expansion
tank, expansion tank is only 1/3 full and this is where you install the
pressure cap. Attached is also a photo of my swirl-pot/expansion-tank;
note it is not the highest point in the system; the bottom connects to the
highest point (water pump outlet); the top is connected to an tire valve for
pressurization and also the system pressure gauge. Not shown but later
installed, is the rear iron (closest to prop) was T’d into the TOP port of
the expansion tank with 1/8” restrictors in hose to remove air from the
engine block.
Gurgling
sounds are not good; there are two o-rings per iron, per rotor housing. The
inner is the combustion o-ring and the outer is the water-jacket
o-ring. If you are getting gurgling sounds then it is possible that
coolant is getting past the compression o-ring into the combustion chamber.
This can be checked easily but removing your exhaust, turning over the
engine by hand and watching for signs of coolant being expelled when the
apex seals pass over the exhaust port. If there is a milky film on the
dip stick then it is possible that coolant is also getting past the coolant
o-ring at bottom of engine and leaking into the oil sump. Either
situation if true constitutes an engine tear-down and rebuild. The
Bruce-T video is what I used to overhaul my engine/s.
This
leads to the question: “Where did your engine come from and what was done to
it prior to installation on your project”?
Jeff
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start |
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Sat,
24 May 2014 07:57:48 +0800 |
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Hi
guys
We are just
finishing our Glasair SIIRG with a Renesis 4 port.
Started her up
after finishing main wiring and she burst into life. (without prop at
the moment).
~70psi oil
pressure oil and water temps building. Ran it for 5 mins or so before
shutdown not wanting temps above 200.
We worked out that
if we lifted the tail up we could get some more air out and water
in.
I have some
questions/concerns:
1. Gurgling sound
emanating from oil filler/breather with white substance on the oil dip
stick. Concerned water may be getting into sump. What are the symptoms
of o-ring failure? So much to learn re rotaries.
2. If we do need
to tear it down, any great sources of how to go about it. Remembering
years ago seeing Bruce T had a video?
3. We are working
on an expansion tank design and wondered if someone could share the
important elements of a good cooling system design. Looking at photos
of other aircraft I’ve seen lines to expansion tanks from A. Rear iron
port. B. Radiator tank top. etc. A. Is height of tank significant? B.
Volume required? C. How much air should be left in the tank? D. Cap
style?.
So much appreciate
having this list.
Steve
Izett
Perth Western
Australia |
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