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Hi Dennis,
Tracy's in CO, so you may not get a quick response. He came through
here Thurs nite, so probably got to CO Sat nite or Sun.
I've got no clue on what Tracy would recommend on pressing off the
retainer, but when I rebuilt a GM 4 speed transmission about 45
years ago, the machine shop just pressed off a bearing (actually
synchro ring) retainer without heat (no charge for a broke 19 yr
old). I 'pressed' it back on with a piece of water pipe and a
hammer. :-)
Please keep us updated; that's disconcerting news when I haven't
started my engine yet.
Charlie
-------- Original Message --------
Tracy,
I hope you are doing well.
I'm sorry I could not attend the fly-in at Charlie
England's. I really wanted to be there with all the guys!
When running my Renesis
powered RV -7A on the ground at idle (1600 rpm) I noticed
a random tick noise in the front bearing area of the RD1 -
C When prop rpm was increased to 2000 rpm the noise went
away. I removed the prop output shaft and had several
mechanics inspect the bearing and none thought it was bad.
I have purchased a replacement bearing (MRC #209SZZ) and
still want to replace the bearing. The bearing has a
bearing retainer ring (part # 58505 R) pressed on the
shaft against the bearing. The machine shop wants to heat
the 58505 R retainer and press it and the old bearing off
- then reuse the bearing retainer with the new bearing -
is this OK or should I get a new retainer? If I need a new
retainer who supplies them?
My prop gear lash has
increased from about 3/8 in. when new to about 5/8 in with
600 hrs. of run time. After disassembly of the RD1- C it
appears the input shaft spline has a very small amount of
play between it and the flex plate spline. Is this any
problem? No noticeable play was found in the planetary
gear system.
Thanks,
Dennis Haverlah
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014
8:11 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Re
[Fly Rotary]: start
Thanks very much Jeff
The engine is a Renesis 4 port, it was one of a batch of
Mazda’s test engines that a number of us here in Australia
purchased.
We have done nothing to it internally as yet.
We have an expansion tank being welded up and when we
install it hopefully this weekend we will then pressure test
and compression test to ascertain primary engine health
parameters.
Cheers
Steve Izett
Steve,
attached is the Hanover cooling system diagram …
note all the cooling elements (radiator, hoses,
filler bottle) are completely full of glycol
(green); only the expansion tank (approx 1 litre,
with stant lever cap) has room for air, filled
only about 1/3. The location of the expansion
tank is shown higher than everything else in the
diagram but can actually be located lower; what is
important is the connections be as shown, i.e.,
highest point of saturated cooling system connects
to bottom of expansion tank, expansion tank is
only 1/3 full and this is where you install the
pressure cap. Attached is also a photo of my
swirl-pot/expansion-tank; note it is not the
highest point in the system; the bottom connects
to the highest point (water pump outlet); the top
is connected to an tire valve for pressurization
and also the system pressure gauge. Not shown but
later installed, is the rear iron (closest to
prop) was T’d into the TOP port of the expansion
tank with 1/8” restrictors in hose to remove air
from the engine block.
Gurgling
sounds are not good; there are two o-rings per
iron, per rotor housing. The inner is the
combustion o-ring and the outer is the
water-jacket o-ring. If you are getting gurgling
sounds then it is possible that coolant is getting
past the compression o-ring into the combustion
chamber. This can be checked easily but removing
your exhaust, turning over the engine by hand and
watching for signs of coolant being expelled when
the apex seals pass over the exhaust port. If
there is a milky film on the dip stick then it is
possible that coolant is also getting past the
coolant o-ring at bottom of engine and leaking
into the oil sump. Either situation if true
constitutes an engine tear-down and rebuild. The
Bruce-T video is what I used to overhaul my
engine/s.
This leads
to the question: “Where did your engine come from
and what was done to it prior to installation on
your project”?
Jeff
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From:
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Subject:
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start
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Date:
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Sat,
24 May 2014 07:57:48
+0800
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To:
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Hi guys
We are just
finishing our Glasair SIIRG with a
Renesis 4 port.
Started her up
after finishing main wiring and she
burst into life. (without prop at the
moment).
~70psi oil
pressure oil and water temps building.
Ran it for 5 mins or so before shutdown
not wanting temps above 200.
We worked out
that if we lifted the tail up we could
get some more air out and water in.
I have some
questions/concerns:
1. Gurgling sound
emanating from oil filler/breather with
white substance on the oil dip stick.
Concerned water may be getting into
sump. What are the symptoms of o-ring
failure? So much to learn re rotaries.
2. If we do need
to tear it down, any great sources of
how to go about it. Remembering years
ago seeing Bruce T had a video?
3. We are working
on an expansion tank design and wondered
if someone could share the important
elements of a good cooling system
design. Looking at photos of other
aircraft I’ve seen lines to expansion
tanks from A. Rear iron port. B.
Radiator tank top. etc. A. Is height of
tank significant? B. Volume required? C.
How much air should be left in the tank?
D. Cap style?.
So much
appreciate having this list.
Steve Izett
Perth Western
Australia
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