|
Message
I ran the engine for a total of 8 minutes spread over 5 or 6
runs this morning. It runs on computer B. If I switch to A it dies immediately.
I plan to study the EC2 manual in depth with respect to programming, but I think
I have a few mechanical issues to deal with as well.
You've probably got a
mixture difference between A and B. Do you have an O2 sensor, and
meter? You'll certainly want one. I'd go through the procedure of
reloading the default calibrations, and go from there.
Cooling.
I don't think I have ANY water circulation at all. After each
short 15 second run I added maybe a pint of water. In a later longer run of
about 90 seconds I may have overheated the turbo. Perhaps it seized and this is
what's causing my breathing problem below. Anyway, the oil came up to about 180,
but the water temp never moved off the peg, and the rad and pipes never even got
warm after any run. I have a slight drip from the lower water pump fixture which
goes to the rad. If this is the suction end, then I'm probably sucking air into
the system. I am running a thermostat. Maybe I should remove it.
Since you're running a thermostat, I'd
be surprised if it opened with only the short amount of running that you
did. When closed, it circulates through the block only, and the fact that
you had to add a bit of coolant each time is a good indication that it was
circulating and getting the air pockets out of the block. There's not much
that can go wrong with a stock water pump. If it's turning, it almost has
to be pumping.
Don't worry about seizing the turbo
with no water flow. The turbo doesn't really need the water except to help
make up for people that run their cars hard, then shut them off without a cool
down period. With quality oil, and a little care, you could disconnect the
water pipe and never know the difference.
Breathing.
The engine seems starved of air. I hear a suction kinda noise
on throttle change and the manifold pressure is hovering around 20 inches of hg.
(starts at 30). If I leave the throttle alone the engine will cycle up and down
between say 2000 and 3000 by itself. It sounds sweet and happy, but obviously
something's not right here.
The surging is just a mixture tuning
issue, you'll fix that soon enough. A lot of air moves through an engine,
and when the throttle is nearly closed, it has to suck it through a small
opening. I wouldn't worry about this either.
Oil Pressure.
I have a cheap mechanical gauge hooked up at the back
(because my westach reads 90psi when the engine's not running and goes off scale
when it starts). The guy watching oil pressure says that the cheap gauge went
full circle, past 100 and hit the zero stop coming the other way. The cheap
gauge has air in the line, but that wouldnt cause this behavior would it?. What
oil pressure should I be reading.
For a stock engine, about 30 psi at
idle, and around 60 psi when fully warm at any non-idle rpm. If you rev
the engine cold, it might go higher. Did your engine rebuilder
install a high pressure oil relief valve? You don't need it.
The stock pressure is fine for our use.
Comments &
suggestions welcome as always. I'm wayyyyy out of my depth here. John Slade Cozy
IV turbo 13B REW
Entertainment, and EDUCATION :-)
Congrats on making
noise!
Rusty (need more TIG practice on
stainless)
|