X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.120] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.6) with ESMTP id 6445729 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 18:31:54 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.120; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Return-Path: X-Authority-Analysis: v=2.0 cv=N7qr5hBB c=1 sm=0 a=8784VxN1RgZhBaSzA3ibpA==:17 a=KWPSR_H0u7wA:10 a=05ChyHeVI94A:10 a=ayC55rCoAAAA:8 a=KGjhK52YXX0A:10 a=AoVUR-BYLsUA:10 a=glYVDZ00AAAA:8 a=3oc9M9_CAAAA:8 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=pGLkceISAAAA:8 a=N8B9JuSIAAAA:8 a=oCcaPWc0AAAA:8 a=osCl_i4h_geMoJQz13YA:9 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=XCwpvLtFMdsA:10 a=U8Ie8EnqySEA:10 a=EzXvWhQp4_cA:10 a=MSl-tDqOz04A:10 a=0_5K6qvW1MZc6-le:21 a=rPW4X_0bV25cHK7d:21 a=KTBDdJMVfsdO_WwsNnUA:9 a=_W_S_7VecoQA:10 a=tXsnliwV7b4A:10 a=z7y_YVlQXTHTqhNt:21 a=8784VxN1RgZhBaSzA3ibpA==:117 X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 X-Authenticated-User: X-Originating-IP: 174.110.171.30 Received: from [174.110.171.30] ([174.110.171.30:53528] helo=EdPC) by cdptpa-oedge04.mail.rr.com (envelope-from ) (ecelerity 2.2.3.46 r()) with ESMTP id E2/FB-21526-63A7E125; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 22:31:19 +0000 Message-ID: <1F37967982F34D3393C0043DDAEF0642@EdPC> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 18:30:52 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0007_01CEA41C.B9D337F0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal Importance: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Live Mail 16.4.3508.205 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V16.4.3508.205 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01CEA41C.B9D337F0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable One of the things I found out when I was designing my oil system for my = Plugs Up installation =E2=80=93 was that even a very small hole in the = tube (or improper fitting of the bolt one flange) would drastically = reduce the oil pumps ability to pick up oil from the sump. Sort goes = much easier to suck air than oil. Next time you have the oil pick up = off =E2=80=93 verify that it does not have any holes/cracks =E2=80=93 = putting it underwater and blowing air into the tube might show if any = leaks. Ed From: David Leonard=20 Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 6:10 PM To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure Chris,=20 Man, I feel your pain. What a frustrating problem, especially since it = involves frequent removal of the engine to try something new. I have = nothing new to add, just pointing out the issues that seem most likely = to me: 1) Lynn mentioned that your oil jets may be too big with the ball = removed. That problem would look like oil pressure too low at idle but = comes up to normal fairly quickly with increasing RPM 2) The thermal pellet. Easy enough to modify on you own or buy an = insert from Tracy or Mazdatrix. Problem would look like too big of oil = jets - see item #1. But since you are not getting proper oil pressure even at higher RPM = those are likely only a contribution to the main problem. Thinking out loud here, it has to be: 1 - pump not picking up oil (all unlikely) foam - unlikely leaking pick-up gasket insufficient oil level=20 clogged screen 2 - pump not pumping oil (unlikely) key fell out even though you checked (can be verified with oil pain removed) improper installation =20 3 - oil being dumped back prematurely Prior to reaching front cover=20 Improperly installed oil pump =20 Crossing front cover the dreaded o-ring (can it ever really be fixed?) oil metering cross-over=20 (I did just like you did with a plate over the = pump mount. there is a jet on the inside of the front=20 cover that sprays oil onto the oil pump chain. = I keep that cross-over=20 intact in order to oil the chain) something causing a blockage prior to your oil = pressure sensor that causes the pressure relief valve to open. = Test this by moving=20 pressure sensor as close to the oil outlet as = possible. Via other oil use to turbo to PSRU other? Somewhere back in the engine stuck oil pressure regulator thermal pellet too big of rotor oil jets very loose clearance of some bearing That is about it... and you have checked just about all of those. So it = is either something on this list you did not check, or you thought it = was OK but it is not. =20 If I were in your shoes, I would do the following. Check the oil pressure near the oil outlet. Next, assuming the pressure = is low there, consider the following: With the engine still on the plane, remove the oil pan. Check the key = in the oil pump shaft. All good there I assume. Remove the spark plugs and prop. Rig up a large catchment that will = catch all the oil that is about to come dripping out of the engine. Rig = up something so the pickup is in a supply of oil but you can still see = the entire underside of the engine. With the EC2 and fuel pumps off, have a friend turn over the engine with = the starter and note the oil pressure. As he keeps turning it over = watch and see where the bulk of oil is coming from. Should lead you to = your problem. It is messy proposition, but better than removing the engine and doing = a rebuild when you don't even know what you are fixing. If you still = end up needing a rebuild, at least you will know why.=20 Good Luck. =20 Dave Leonard =20 On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 12:23 PM, Chris Barber = wrote: Thanks Rich. I have the book somewhere. I will take a look. I am NOT = using the front cover gasket which has been recommended as well.=20 Sent from my iPhone 5 On Aug 25, 2013, at 13:01, "ARGOLDMAN@aol.com" = wrote: Chris, Been following your oil pressure saga and certainly sympathize with = you and your quest. The answer may be found in Tracy's book "Aviators guide to Mazda = Rotary conversion. It seems that he ran into a similar problem in his quest to get = these things to work properly. On page 97 - 99 the talks about the change in the front gasket = design which predisposes the "O" ring to get damaged and leak. I didn't = pay much attention to this problem as he stated that sometime later = Mazda had some sort of solution and I have an Renesis. Perhaps this is the problem with which you are dealing. Take a look Rich In a message dated 8/24/2013 2:58:31 A.M. Central Daylight Time, = cbarber@texasattorney.net writes: Kelly,=20 I am not sure if the orifice is closed off. I have removed the = oil metering pump as I pre-mix. I have a plate over the mounting place = of the oil pump....is that what you refer to? It does not sound as if = this is what you mean. The metering pump drive gear IS still in place. Can you provide more information on the orifice. A picture would = be great but I know that's a long shot. Thanks for the input. My mind is wielding chasing this gremlin. = I am thinking everything from this, to a hose being placed incorrectly = on the oil cooler (I know I followed what was on the diagram I had) to a = cracked oil galley on the iron or housing. I really can't afford a = new/different engine but hell, I may nickel and dime my way to the poor = house the way I am going. Chris -------------------------------------------------------------------------= - From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on = behalf of Kelly Troyer [keltro@gmail.com] Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 11:17 PM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure Chris,=20 A shot in the dark here...........This is presuming you have = removed the oil metering pump and are premixing 2 cycle oil in the = fuel..............If=20 so did you block the oil feed orifice from the front (rear in your = ship) iron to the front cover...........This oriface will bleed off some = pressure (I do not know how much) if not blocked and if the metering pump drive gear = is also removed will probably bleed off even more..............Tracy = might be able to shed more educated light on this theory............FWIW Kelly Troyer On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 8:12 PM, Chris Barber = wrote: I continue to have a real problem with oil pressure. I have = tried everything I can think of and, I think, everything that has been = suggested here and elsewhere (nopiston, RX7 club, Mazdatrix, web and = phone, Racing Beat) to no avail. My efforts may have increased pressure = for a very short while but the pressure has not come up to proper levels = (depending on which regulator, stock 2nd gen or the 100lb replacement I = installed) nor does it stay higher. The new pressure regulator, rated = at 100lbs, I installed brought the pressure up to about 70lbs for a = very short while but has again dropped to a little over 20 at idle and = not getting to 30lbs at 6000 rpm (only at 6000 rpm for a short while to = determine if any progress, I do worry, especially about the PSRU-RDb). = Oil is flowing as indicated by the system heating up. This is a second gen, turbo engine. Here it the list of what I have tried and some data points. 1. Yes, the front cover oil ring has been addressed, several = times. I have replaced it a few times now, WITH and without the = silicone ring around it. I have had it disappear, however, I have now = installed a brass tube tapped and screwed into the engine to minimize = the o-ring being blown out. I have checked this install to ensure it = has not been restricting anything. it does not seem to be as I have run = the engine, then removed the front cover and all was well, including the = o-ring and silicone ring and it did not seem to hurt the iron or front = cover. 2. The front cover does not seem warped or damaged. 3. I have replaced the rear pressure regulator with the 100lb = version and modified the front bypass spring by placing the washers (2) = provided by Mazdatrix. 4. I have verified that the oil pan pickup is not clogged and = that it is securely safety wired to the engine and that the seal (no = gasket but gray RTV) is secure. 5. I have replaced the oil pump with a new one from Mazdatrix. 6. I have verified the oil pump "key" is properly inserted and = that the gear is secure and torqued properly and that the washer is bent = as it should be. I don't recall if I applied RTV between the pump and = block but I would think I did....this being the problem by oil seeping = out is a stretch but I am considering all a can think off. 7. I have cleaned and inspected the stock oil cooler and it = flows well. 8. I have removed the front secondary oil cooler that is = installed in the front of my canard for cabin heat to simplify plumbing. = Trhis eleminated about four hoses as it was plumbed in parallel=20 9. The oil filter has been replaced with a new K&N 3001 filter. = The remote filter mount has been checked and not problems are noted. I = have also run the engine for a short while bypassing the oil filter to = determine if it was causing a blockage as my oil pressure sensors = located after the filter. The oil pressure did raise some, but only = about 5 to 10 lbs. 10. I have checked that all the hoses flow freely. 11. The e-shaft was modified removing the stock spring to use = jets for better oil flow. I remember verify their install at the last = tear-down. 12. I purchased all the iron (end and center) and rotor = housings new from Mazdatrix a while back. 13. The front and rear bearing have been replaced new. I = thought maybe that they were worn (or damaged) but with talking with = Mazdatrix they said they bearings would have to have much more = significant wear than would usually be had in not competitive use. They = said this was a very unlikely cause. 14. The original location of the oil filter is modified but the = use of the Mistral intake that provides an o-ring seal and passage in = place of the stock filter.=20 15. The turbo supply on the top of the engine and return oil = passage on the front cover have been capped off as I have removed the = turbo as I test the engine and until I can have produced a more robust = turbo manifold as my first one failed from power pulses/heat. 16. I have had not noticeable leaks from the engine. 17. I wondered if perhaps I left a seal off somewhere during = the last rebuild. I thought perhaps the o-rings that go around the = dowls that go through the engine....which I do NOT think happened. = Matratrix stated that if these were left out, I would be visibly leaking = out the engine. Okay, that is what I can think of for now. Please, what insight = might y'all have. This does not seem to be an issue limited to a rotary = but it is a problem with my rotary so I may cross post. Forgive me if = you must drudge your way on other sites. Is there a way to pressure test the oil system? My thought is = that if I tried to pressure test it that the oil would simply move = around the bearings and such as designed and thus not "pump-up". If I = could, perhaps the pumping up would show an internal leak as about the = only thing I can think of is that an internal passage is cracked = allowing oil to leak out back into the pan and not allowing proper = pressure to develop. But, like I said the iron is new (well, a few years = old now but purchased new then). I know factory parts can fail as I had = the thin water channel passage break in the first hour with a new center = plate when I bought the other parts. Mazdatrix replaced it. I am at a complete loss. I have started the ancillary tear down = in preparation to remove the engine from the plane for a better look, = but since I am not certain what else to look for, I feel like I am = spinning my wheels. I believe I have been methodical but if not, or I = am missing things, please speak up. I have been grounded for the last few months at a nearby airport = where I am having to drop an extra $250.00 am month for hangar space. I = lost the engine over the airport due to an unrelated fuel blockage in = the fuel rail but since the pressure was notably down, I want to address = it before I try to fly home...if that ever friken happens....sigh. I = would sure like to be throwing that money at a nicer plane and not this = circle I feel I am in. Thanks everyone. All the best, Chris Barber Houston, GSOT Velocity SE/FG Rotary 13b Ellington Feild EFD and Pearland Municiple LVJ --=20 David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net=20 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3211/6617 - Release Date: = 08/28/13 ------=_NextPart_000_0007_01CEA41C.B9D337F0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
One of the things I found out when I was designing my oil system = for my=20 Plugs Up installation =E2=80=93 was that even a very small hole in the = tube (or improper=20 fitting of the bolt one flange) would drastically reduce the oil pumps = ability=20 to pick up oil from the sump.  Sort goes much easier to suck air = than=20 oil.  Next time you have the oil pick up off =E2=80=93 verify that = it does not have=20 any holes/cracks =E2=80=93 putting it underwater and blowing air into = the tube might=20 show if any leaks.
 
Ed
 
Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 6:10 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure
 
Chris,=20
 
Man, I feel your pain.  What a frustrating problem, especially = since=20 it involves frequent removal of the engine to try something new.  I = have=20 nothing new to add, just pointing out the issues that seem most likely = to=20 me:
 
1)  Lynn mentioned that your oil jets may be too big with the = ball=20 removed.  That problem would look like oil pressure too low at idle = but=20 comes up to normal fairly quickly with increasing RPM
 
2)  The thermal pellet.  Easy enough to modify on you own = or buy=20 an insert from Tracy or Mazdatrix.  Problem would look like too big = of oil=20 jets - see item #1.
 
But since you are not getting proper oil pressure even at higher = RPM those=20 are likely only a contribution to the main problem.
 
Thinking out loud here, it has to be:
 
1 - pump not picking up oil  (all unlikely)
           &n= bsp;        =20 foam - unlikely
           &n= bsp;        =20 leaking pick-up gasket
           &n= bsp;        =20 insufficient oil level
           &n= bsp;        =20 clogged screen
 
2 - pump not pumping oil  (unlikely)
           &n= bsp;        =20 key fell out even though you checked
           &n= bsp;          =20 (can be verified with oil pain removed)
           &n= bsp;        =20 improper installation         =
 
3 - oil being dumped back prematurely
           &n= bsp; =20 Prior to reaching front cover
           &n= bsp;       =20 Improperly installed oil=20 pump           &nb= sp;        =20
           &n= bsp; =20 Crossing front cover
           &n= bsp;        =20 the dreaded o-ring (can it ever really be fixed?)
           &n= bsp;        =20 oil metering cross-over
           &n= bsp;           =20 (I did just like you did with a plate over the pump mount.
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;=20 there is a jet on the inside of the front
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;=20 cover that sprays oil onto the oil pump chain.  I keep that = cross-over=20
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;=20 intact in order to oil the chain)
           &n= bsp;        =20 something causing a blockage prior to your oil pressure sensor
           &n= bsp;           =20 that causes the pressure relief valve to open.  Test this by moving =
           &n= bsp;           =20 pressure sensor as close to the oil outlet as possible.
           &n= bsp; =20 Via other oil use
           &n= bsp;         =20 to turbo
           &n= bsp;         =20 to PSRU
           &n= bsp;         =20 other?
           &n= bsp; =20 Somewhere back in the engine
           &n= bsp;        =20 stuck oil pressure regulator
           &n= bsp;        =20 thermal pellet
           &n= bsp;        =20 too big of rotor oil jets
           &n= bsp;        =20 very loose clearance of some bearing
 
That is about it... and you have checked just about all of = those.  So=20 it is either something on this list you did not check, or you thought it = was OK=20 but it is not. 
 
If I were in your shoes, I would do the following.
 
Check the oil pressure near the oil outlet.  Next, assuming = the=20 pressure is low there, consider the following:
 
With the engine still on the plane, remove the oil pan.  Check = the key=20 in the oil pump shaft.  All good there I assume.
 
Remove the spark plugs and prop.  Rig up a large catchment = that will=20 catch all the oil that is about to come dripping out of the = engine.  Rig up=20 something so the pickup is in a supply of oil but you can still see the = entire=20 underside of the engine.
 
With the EC2 and fuel pumps off, have a friend turn over the engine = with=20 the starter and note the oil pressure.   As he keeps turning = it over=20 watch and see where the bulk of oil is coming from.   Should = lead you=20 to your problem.
 
It is messy proposition,  but better than removing the engine = and=20 doing a rebuild when you don't even know what you are fixing.  If = you still=20 end up needing a rebuild, at least you will know why.
 
Good Luck.    
 
Dave=20 Leonard           =    =20
 


On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 12:23 PM, Chris Barber = <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wrote:
Thanks Rich. I have the book somewhere. I will take a look. I am = NOT=20 using the front cover gasket which has been recommended as well. =

Sent=20 from my iPhone 5

On Aug 25, 2013, at 13:01, "ARGOLDMAN@aol.com" <ARGOLDMAN@aol.com> wrote:

Chris,

Been following your oil pressure saga and = certainly=20 sympathize with you and your quest.

The answer may be found = in=20 Tracy's book "Aviators guide to Mazda Rotary conversion.

It = seems=20 that he ran into a similar problem in his quest to get these things = to work=20 properly.

On page 97 - 99 the talks about the change in the = front=20 gasket design which predisposes the "O" ring to get damaged and = leak. I=20 didn't pay much attention to this problem as he stated that sometime = later=20 Mazda had some sort of solution and I have an = Renesis.

Perhaps this=20 is the problem with which you are dealing.

Take a look
 
Rich
 
In a message dated 8/24/2013 2:58:31 A.M. Central Daylight = Time, cbarber@texasattorney.net writes:

Kelly,

 

I am not sure if the orifice is closed off.  I have = removed the=20 oil metering pump as I pre-mix.  I have a plate over the = mounting=20 place of the oil pump....is that what you refer to?  It does = not=20 sound as if this is what you mean.  The metering pump drive = gear IS=20 still in place.

 

Can you provide more information on the orifice.  A = picture would=20 be great but I know that's a long shot.

 

Thanks for the input.  My mind is wielding chasing this=20 gremlin.  I am thinking everything from this, to a hose being = placed=20 incorrectly on the oil cooler (I know I followed what was on the = diagram I=20 had) to a cracked oil galley on the iron or housing.  I = really can't=20 afford a new/different engine but hell, I may nickel and dime my = way to=20 the poor house the way I am going.

 

Chris

From:=20 Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf of = Kelly Troyer=20 [keltro@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, = August 23,=20 2013 11:17 PM
To: Rotary motors in = aircraft
Subject:=20 [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure

Chris,=20
   A shot in the dark here...........This is = presuming you=20 have removed the oil metering pump and are premixing 2 cycle oil = in the=20 fuel..............If
so did you block the oil feed orifice from the front (rear in = your=20 ship) iron to the front cover...........This oriface will bleed = off some=20 pressure (I do not
know how much) if not blocked and if the metering pump drive = gear is=20 also removed will probably bleed off even more..............Tracy = might be=20 able
to shed more educated light on this = theory............FWIW
 
Kelly Troyer


On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 8:12 PM, Chris = Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> = wrote:
I=20 continue to have a real problem with oil pressure.  I have = tried=20 everything I can think of and, I think, everything that has been = suggested here and elsewhere (nopiston, RX7 club, Mazdatrix, web = and=20 phone, Racing Beat) to no avail.  My efforts may have = increased=20 pressure for a very short while but the pressure has not come up = to=20 proper levels (depending on which regulator, stock 2nd gen or = the 100lb=20 replacement I installed) nor does it stay higher.  The new = pressure=20 regulator, rated at 100lbs, I installed brought the pressure = up  to=20 about 70lbs for a very short while but has again dropped to a = little=20 over 20 at idle and not getting to 30lbs at 6000 rpm (only at = 6000 rpm=20 for a short while to determine if any progress, I do worry, = especially=20 about the PSRU-RDb).  Oil is flowing as indicated by the = system=20 heating up.

This is a second gen, turbo = engine.

Here it=20 the list of what I have tried and some data = points.

1.  Yes,=20 the front cover oil ring has been addressed, several = times.  I have=20 replaced it a few times now, WITH and without the silicone ring = around=20 it.  I have had it disappear, however, I have now installed = a brass=20 tube tapped and screwed into the engine to minimize the o-ring = being=20 blown out.  I have checked this install to ensure it has = not been=20 restricting anything. it does not seem to be as I have run the = engine,=20 then removed the front cover and all was well, including the = o-ring and=20 silicone ring and it did not seem to hurt the iron or front=20 cover.

2.  The front cover does not seem warped or=20 damaged.

3.  I have replaced the rear pressure = regulator=20 with the 100lb version and modified the front bypass spring by = placing=20 the washers (2) provided by Mazdatrix.

4.  I have = verified=20 that the oil pan pickup is not clogged and that it is securely = safety=20 wired to the engine and that the seal (no gasket but gray RTV) = is=20 secure.

5.  I have replaced the oil pump with a new = one from=20 Mazdatrix.

6.  I have verified the oil pump "key" is = properly inserted and that the gear is secure and torqued = properly and=20 that the washer is bent as it should be.  I don't recall if = I=20 applied RTV between the pump and block but I would think I = did....this=20 being the problem by oil seeping out is a stretch but I am = considering=20 all a can think off.

7.  I have cleaned and = inspected the=20 stock oil cooler and it flows well.

8.  I have = removed the=20 front secondary oil cooler that is installed in the front of my = canard=20 for cabin heat to simplify plumbing. Trhis eleminated about four = hoses=20 as it was plumbed in parallel

9.  The oil filter = has been=20 replaced with a new K&N 3001 filter.  The remote filter = mount=20 has been checked and not problems are noted.  I have also = run the=20 engine for a short while bypassing the oil filter to determine = if it was=20 causing a blockage as my oil pressure sensors located after the=20 filter.  The oil pressure did raise some, but only about 5 = to 10=20 lbs.

10.  I have checked that all the hoses flow=20 freely.

11.  The e-shaft was modified removing the = stock=20 spring to use jets for better oil flow.  I remember verify = their=20 install at the last tear-down.

12.  I purchased all = the iron=20 (end and center) and rotor housings new from Mazdatrix a while=20 back.

13.  The front and rear bearing have been = replaced=20 new. I thought maybe that they were worn (or damaged) but with = talking=20 with Mazdatrix they said they bearings would have to have much = more=20 significant wear than would usually be had in not competitive = use. =20 They said this was a very unlikely cause.

14.  The = original=20 location of the oil filter is modified but the use of the = Mistral intake=20 that provides an o-ring seal and passage in place of the stock = filter.=20

15.  The turbo supply on the top of the engine and = return=20 oil passage on the front cover have been capped off as I have = removed=20 the turbo as I test the engine and until I can have produced a = more=20 robust turbo manifold as my first one failed from power=20 pulses/heat.

16.  I have had not noticeable leaks = from the=20 engine.

17.  I wondered if perhaps I left a seal off = somewhere during the last rebuild.  I thought perhaps the = o-rings=20 that go around the dowls that go through the engine....which I = do NOT=20 think happened.  Matratrix stated that if these were left = out, I=20 would be visibly leaking out the engine.

Okay, that is = what I can=20 think of for now.  Please, what insight might y'all = have. =20 This does not seem to be an issue limited to a rotary but it is = a=20 problem with my rotary so I may cross post.  Forgive me if = you must=20 drudge your way on other sites.

Is there a way to = pressure test=20 the oil system?  My thought is that if I tried to pressure = test it=20 that the oil would simply move around the bearings and such as = designed=20 and thus not "pump-up".  If I could, perhaps the pumping up = would=20 show an internal leak as about the only thing I can think of is = that an=20 internal passage is cracked allowing oil to leak out back into = the pan=20 and not allowing proper pressure to develop. But, like I said = the iron=20 is new (well, a few years old now but purchased new then).  = I know=20 factory parts can fail as I had the thin water channel passage = break in=20 the first hour with a new center plate when I bought the other=20 parts.  Mazdatrix replaced it.

I am at a complete=20 loss.  I have started the ancillary tear down in = preparation to=20 remove the engine from the plane for a better look, but since I = am not=20 certain what else to look for, I feel like I am spinning my=20 wheels.  I believe I have been methodical but if not, or I = am=20 missing things, please speak up.

I have been grounded for = the=20 last few months at a nearby airport where I am having to drop an = extra=20 $250.00 am month for hangar space.  I lost the engine over = the=20 airport due to an unrelated fuel blockage in the fuel rail but = since the=20 pressure was notably down, I want to address it before I try to = fly=20 home...if that ever friken happens....sigh.  I would sure = like to=20 be throwing that money at a nicer plane and not this circle I = feel I am=20 in.

Thanks everyone.

All the best,

Chris=20 Barber
Houston, GSOT
Velocity SE/FG
Rotary = 13b
Ellington=20 Feild EFD and Pearland Municiple=20 LVJ



 
=
 
=

 
--
David Leonard

Turbo Rotary RV-6 = N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.nethttp://RotaryRoster.net =

No virus found in this=20 message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3392 / = Virus=20 Database: 3211/6617 - Release Date: = 08/28/13

------=_NextPart_000_0007_01CEA41C.B9D337F0--