X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail-pb0-f53.google.com ([209.85.160.53] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.6) with ESMTPS id 6445724 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 18:11:27 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.160.53; envelope-from=wdleonard@gmail.com Received: by mail-pb0-f53.google.com with SMTP id up15so6782280pbc.40 for ; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 15:10:51 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=tJc42mmlev0RUQErssCM8Unzw35g+spAiyyI9biCV/I=; b=Nqu988dLnYL+HriwFGAW4CvQVmp4PNvcWn62ZyuyYWmOgXbLRvjxQ+vzxzdfw7xHlz QkOctYjG7u/pk79MQqVDdSOJcrCbpyfJVA01gtC0MxVnI7P0a6NXD5NucZng1SaSZVc7 VgGxbqGuHSZjSkWm7IylSNU1uzctOxM4XqPRcMpWFFR2qZiBPyp3DQX1mOQ3VSAvrFY8 bpl5A2RXQv4fmX+doBn9eSrq+4f3ZAXubbKRBIaxs/Mg/wfklPElxHbguzNE1/zQh/mM 0FPye8IOod+btxNNYT8ML5Z3EFr5gYjz2LPwDr3HKRdTDaZNMADJRuVAeYOTIpt0Jy4u 7MFg== MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Received: by 10.66.118.129 with SMTP id km1mr746849pab.127.1377727851341; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 15:10:51 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.70.73.73 with HTTP; Wed, 28 Aug 2013 15:10:51 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 15:10:51 -0700 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure From: David Leonard To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=e89a8ffbab6b2d2e1e04e50943ad --e89a8ffbab6b2d2e1e04e50943ad Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Chris, Man, I feel your pain. What a frustrating problem, especially since it involves frequent removal of the engine to try something new. I have nothing new to add, just pointing out the issues that seem most likely to me: 1) Lynn mentioned that your oil jets may be too big with the ball removed. That problem would look like oil pressure too low at idle but comes up to normal fairly quickly with increasing RPM 2) The thermal pellet. Easy enough to modify on you own or buy an insert from Tracy or Mazdatrix. Problem would look like too big of oil jets - see item #1. But since you are not getting proper oil pressure even at higher RPM those are likely only a contribution to the main problem. Thinking out loud here, it has to be: 1 - pump not picking up oil (all unlikely) foam - unlikely leaking pick-up gasket insufficient oil level clogged screen 2 - pump not pumping oil (unlikely) key fell out even though you checked (can be verified with oil pain removed) improper installation 3 - oil being dumped back prematurely Prior to reaching front cover Improperly installed oil pump Crossing front cover the dreaded o-ring (can it ever really be fixed?) oil metering cross-over (I did just like you did with a plate over the pump mount. there is a jet on the inside of the front cover that sprays oil onto the oil pump chain. I keep that cross-over intact in order to oil the chain) something causing a blockage prior to your oil pressure sensor that causes the pressure relief valve to open. Test this by moving pressure sensor as close to the oil outlet as possible. Via other oil use to turbo to PSRU other? Somewhere back in the engine stuck oil pressure regulator thermal pellet too big of rotor oil jets very loose clearance of some bearing That is about it... and you have checked just about all of those. So it is either something on this list you did not check, or you thought it was OK but it is not. If I were in your shoes, I would do the following. Check the oil pressure near the oil outlet. Next, assuming the pressure is low there, consider the following: With the engine still on the plane, remove the oil pan. Check the key in the oil pump shaft. All good there I assume. Remove the spark plugs and prop. Rig up a large catchment that will catch all the oil that is about to come dripping out of the engine. Rig up something so the pickup is in a supply of oil but you can still see the entire underside of the engine. With the EC2 and fuel pumps off, have a friend turn over the engine with the starter and note the oil pressure. As he keeps turning it over watch and see where the bulk of oil is coming from. Should lead you to your problem. It is messy proposition, but better than removing the engine and doing a rebuild when you don't even know what you are fixing. If you still end up needing a rebuild, at least you will know why. Good Luck. Dave Leonard On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 12:23 PM, Chris Barber wrote: > Thanks Rich. I have the book somewhere. I will take a look. I am NOT > using the front cover gasket which has been recommended as well. > > Sent from my iPhone 5 > > On Aug 25, 2013, at 13:01, "ARGOLDMAN@aol.com" wrote: > > Chris, > > Been following your oil pressure saga and certainly sympathize with you > and your quest. > > The answer may be found in Tracy's book "Aviators guide to Mazda Rotary > conversion. > > It seems that he ran into a similar problem in his quest to get these > things to work properly. > > On page 97 - 99 the talks about the change in the front gasket design > which predisposes the "O" ring to get damaged and leak. I didn't pay much > attention to this problem as he stated that sometime later Mazda had some > sort of solution and I have an Renesis. > > Perhaps this is the problem with which you are dealing. > > Take a look > > Rich > > In a message dated 8/24/2013 2:58:31 A.M. Central Daylight Time, > cbarber@texasattorney.net writes: > > Kelly, > > > > I am not sure if the orifice is closed off. I have removed the oil > metering pump as I pre-mix. I have a plate over the mounting place of the > oil pump....is that what you refer to? It does not sound as if this is > what you mean. The metering pump drive gear IS still in place. > > > > Can you provide more information on the orifice. A picture would be great > but I know that's a long shot. > > > > Thanks for the input. My mind is wielding chasing this gremlin. I am > thinking everything from this, to a hose being placed incorrectly on the > oil cooler (I know I followed what was on the diagram I had) to a cracked > oil galley on the iron or housing. I really can't afford a new/different > engine but hell, I may nickel and dime my way to the poor house the way I > am going. > > > > Chris > ------------------------------ > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf > of Kelly Troyer [keltro@gmail.com] > *Sent:* Friday, August 23, 2013 11:17 PM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure > > Chris, > A shot in the dark here...........This is presuming you have removed > the oil metering pump and are premixing 2 cycle oil in the > fuel..............If > so did you block the oil feed orifice from the front (rear in your ship) > iron to the front cover...........This oriface will bleed off some pressure > (I do not > know how much) if not blocked and if the metering pump drive gear is also > removed will probably bleed off even more..............Tracy might be able > to shed more educated light on this theory............FWIW > > Kelly Troyer > > > On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 8:12 PM, Chris Barber wrote: > >> I continue to have a real problem with oil pressure. I have tried >> everything I can think of and, I think, everything that has been suggested >> here and elsewhere (nopiston, RX7 club, Mazdatrix, web and phone, Racing >> Beat) to no avail. My efforts may have increased pressure for a very short >> while but the pressure has not come up to proper levels (depending on which >> regulator, stock 2nd gen or the 100lb replacement I installed) nor does it >> stay higher. The new pressure regulator, rated at 100lbs, I installed >> brought the pressure up to about 70lbs for a very short while but has >> again dropped to a little over 20 at idle and not getting to 30lbs at 6000 >> rpm (only at 6000 rpm for a short while to determine if any progress, I do >> worry, especially about the PSRU-RDb). Oil is flowing as indicated by the >> system heating up. >> >> This is a second gen, turbo engine. >> >> Here it the list of what I have tried and some data points. >> >> 1. Yes, the front cover oil ring has been addressed, several times. I >> have replaced it a few times now, WITH and without the silicone ring around >> it. I have had it disappear, however, I have now installed a brass tube >> tapped and screwed into the engine to minimize the o-ring being blown out. >> I have checked this install to ensure it has not been restricting anything. >> it does not seem to be as I have run the engine, then removed the front >> cover and all was well, including the o-ring and silicone ring and it did >> not seem to hurt the iron or front cover. >> >> 2. The front cover does not seem warped or damaged. >> >> 3. I have replaced the rear pressure regulator with the 100lb version >> and modified the front bypass spring by placing the washers (2) provided by >> Mazdatrix. >> >> 4. I have verified that the oil pan pickup is not clogged and that it is >> securely safety wired to the engine and that the seal (no gasket but gray >> RTV) is secure. >> >> 5. I have replaced the oil pump with a new one from Mazdatrix. >> >> 6. I have verified the oil pump "key" is properly inserted and that the >> gear is secure and torqued properly and that the washer is bent as it >> should be. I don't recall if I applied RTV between the pump and block but >> I would think I did....this being the problem by oil seeping out is a >> stretch but I am considering all a can think off. >> >> 7. I have cleaned and inspected the stock oil cooler and it flows well. >> >> 8. I have removed the front secondary oil cooler that is installed in >> the front of my canard for cabin heat to simplify plumbing. Trhis >> eleminated about four hoses as it was plumbed in parallel >> >> 9. The oil filter has been replaced with a new K&N 3001 filter. The >> remote filter mount has been checked and not problems are noted. I have >> also run the engine for a short while bypassing the oil filter to determine >> if it was causing a blockage as my oil pressure sensors located after the >> filter. The oil pressure did raise some, but only about 5 to 10 lbs. >> >> 10. I have checked that all the hoses flow freely. >> >> 11. The e-shaft was modified removing the stock spring to use jets for >> better oil flow. I remember verify their install at the last tear-down. >> >> 12. I purchased all the iron (end and center) and rotor housings new >> from Mazdatrix a while back. >> >> 13. The front and rear bearing have been replaced new. I thought maybe >> that they were worn (or damaged) but with talking with Mazdatrix they said >> they bearings would have to have much more significant wear than would >> usually be had in not competitive use. They said this was a very unlikely >> cause. >> >> 14. The original location of the oil filter is modified but the use of >> the Mistral intake that provides an o-ring seal and passage in place of the >> stock filter. >> >> 15. The turbo supply on the top of the engine and return oil passage on >> the front cover have been capped off as I have removed the turbo as I test >> the engine and until I can have produced a more robust turbo manifold as my >> first one failed from power pulses/heat. >> >> 16. I have had not noticeable leaks from the engine. >> >> 17. I wondered if perhaps I left a seal off somewhere during the last >> rebuild. I thought perhaps the o-rings that go around the dowls that go >> through the engine....which I do NOT think happened. Matratrix stated that >> if these were left out, I would be visibly leaking out the engine. >> >> Okay, that is what I can think of for now. Please, what insight might >> y'all have. This does not seem to be an issue limited to a rotary but it >> is a problem with my rotary so I may cross post. Forgive me if you must >> drudge your way on other sites. >> >> Is there a way to pressure test the oil system? My thought is that if I >> tried to pressure test it that the oil would simply move around the >> bearings and such as designed and thus not "pump-up". If I could, perhaps >> the pumping up would show an internal leak as about the only thing I can >> think of is that an internal passage is cracked allowing oil to leak out >> back into the pan and not allowing proper pressure to develop. But, like I >> said the iron is new (well, a few years old now but purchased new then). I >> know factory parts can fail as I had the thin water channel passage break >> in the first hour with a new center plate when I bought the other parts. >> Mazdatrix replaced it. >> >> I am at a complete loss. I have started the ancillary tear down in >> preparation to remove the engine from the plane for a better look, but >> since I am not certain what else to look for, I feel like I am spinning my >> wheels. I believe I have been methodical but if not, or I am missing >> things, please speak up. >> >> I have been grounded for the last few months at a nearby airport where I >> am having to drop an extra $250.00 am month for hangar space. I lost the >> engine over the airport due to an unrelated fuel blockage in the fuel rail >> but since the pressure was notably down, I want to address it before I try >> to fly home...if that ever friken happens....sigh. I would sure like to be >> throwing that money at a nicer plane and not this circle I feel I am in. >> >> Thanks everyone. >> >> All the best, >> >> Chris Barber >> Houston, GSOT >> Velocity SE/FG >> Rotary 13b >> Ellington Feild EFD and Pearland Municiple LVJ >> >> > > > > -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net --e89a8ffbab6b2d2e1e04e50943ad Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Chris,

Man, I feel your pain. =A0What a= frustrating problem, especially since it involves frequent removal of the = engine to try something new. =A0I have nothing new to add, just pointing ou= t the issues that seem most likely to me:

1) =A0Lynn mentioned that your oil jets may be too big = with the ball removed. =A0That problem would look like oil pressure too low= at idle but comes up to normal fairly quickly with increasing RPM

2) =A0The thermal pellet. =A0Easy enough to modify on you ow= n or buy an insert from Tracy or Mazdatrix. =A0Problem would look like too = big of oil jets - see item #1.

But since you are n= ot getting proper oil pressure even at higher RPM those are likely only a c= ontribution to the main problem.

Thinking out loud here, it has to be:

1 - pump not picking up oil =A0(all unlikely)
=A0 =A0 =A0= =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0foam - unlikely
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0leaking pick-up gasket
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0insufficient oil level=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0clogged screen

2 - pump not pumping oil =A0(unlikely)
=A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0key fell out even though you checked
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0(can be verified with o= il pain removed)
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0impro= per installation =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0=A0

3 - oil being = dumped back prematurely
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Prior to reac= hing front cover=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Improperly installed oil pump = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 Crossing front cover
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0the dreaded o-ring (can it ever really be fixed?)
=A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0oil metering cross-over=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 (I did just like you d= id with a plate over the pump mount.
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0there is a jet on the inside of the front=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0cover that sprays oil= onto the oil pump chain. =A0I keep that cross-over=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0intact in order to = oil the chain)
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0so= mething causing a blockage prior to your oil pressure sensor
=A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 that causes the pressure relief= valve to open. =A0Test this by moving=A0
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 pressure sensor as clo= se to the oil outlet as possible.
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 Via other oil use
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0= to turbo
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 to PSRU
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 other?
=A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 Somewhere back in the engine
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0stuck oil pressure regulator
=A0 =A0 =A0 = =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0thermal pellet
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0= =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0too big of rotor oil jets
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0very loose clearance of som= e bearing

That is about it... and you have checked= just about all of those. =A0So it is either something on this list you did= not check, or you thought it was OK but it is not. =A0

If I were in your shoes, I would do the following.

Check the oil pressure near the oil outlet. =A0Next, a= ssuming the pressure is low there, consider the following:

With the engine still on the plane, remove the oil pan. =A0Check= the key in the oil pump shaft. =A0All good there I assume.

<= /div>
Remove the spark plugs and prop. =A0Rig up a large catchment that= will catch all the oil that is about to come dripping out of the engine. = =A0Rig up something so the pickup is in a supply of oil but you can still s= ee the entire underside of the engine.

With the EC2 and fuel pumps off, have a friend turn ove= r the engine with the starter and note the oil pressure. =A0 As he keeps tu= rning it over watch and see where the bulk of oil is coming from. =A0 Shoul= d lead you to your problem.

It is messy proposition, =A0but better than removing th= e engine and doing a rebuild when you don't even know what you are fixi= ng. =A0If you still end up needing a rebuild, at least you will know why.= =A0

Good Luck. =A0 =A0=A0

Dave Leo= nard =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0=A0



On Sun, Aug 25, 2013 at 12= :23 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net> wro= te:
Thanks Rich. I have the book somewhere. I will take a look. I am NOT u= sing the front cover gasket which has been recommended as well.=A0

Sent from my iPhone 5

On Aug 25, 2013, at 13:01, "ARGOLDMAN@aol.com" <ARGOLDMAN@aol.com> wrote:

Chris,

Been following your oil pressure saga and certainly sympathize with you and= your quest.

The answer may be found in Tracy's book "Aviators guide to Mazda R= otary conversion.

It seems that he ran into a similar problem in his quest to get these thing= s to work properly.

On page 97 - 99 the talks about the change in the front gasket design which= predisposes the "O" ring to get damaged and leak. I didn't p= ay much attention to this problem as he stated that sometime later Mazda ha= d some sort of solution and I have an Renesis.

Perhaps this is the problem with which you are dealing.

Take a look
=A0
Rich
=A0
In a message dated 8/24/2013 2:58:31 A.M. Central Daylight Time, cbarber@texasattorney.net writes:

Kelly,

=A0

I am not sure if the orifice is closed off.=A0 I have removed the oil me= tering pump as I pre-mix.=A0 I have a plate over the mounting place of the = oil pump....is that what you refer to?=A0 It does not sound as if this is w= hat you mean.=A0 The metering pump drive gear IS still in place.

=A0

Can you provide more information on the orifice.=A0 A picture would be g= reat but I know that's a long shot.

=A0

Thanks for the input.=A0 My mind is wielding chasing this gremlin.=A0 I = am thinking everything from this, to a hose being placed incorrectly on the= oil cooler (I know I followed what was on the diagram I had) to a cracked = oil galley on the iron or housing.=A0 I really can't afford a new/different engine but hell, I may nickel an= d dime my way to the poor house the way I am going.

=A0

Chris

Fro= m: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf of Kelly= Troyer [keltro@gmail= .com]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 11:17 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil pressure

Chris,
=A0 =A0A shot in the dark here...........This is presuming you have re= moved the oil metering pump and are premixing 2 cycle oil in the fuel......= ........If=A0
so did you block the oil feed orifice from the front (rear in your shi= p) iron to the front cover...........This oriface will bleed off some press= ure (I do not
know how much) if not blocked and if the metering pump drive gear is a= lso removed will probably bleed off even more..............Tracy might be a= ble
to shed more educated light on this theory............FWIW

Kelly Troyer


On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 8:12 PM, Chris Barber <cbarber@texasattorney.net>= wrote:
I continue t= o have a real problem with oil pressure.=A0 I have tried everything I can t= hink of and, I think, everything that has been suggested here and elsewhere= (nopiston, RX7 club, Mazdatrix, web and phone, Racing Beat) to no avail.=A0 My efforts may have increased = pressure for a very short while but the pressure has not come up to proper = levels (depending on which regulator, stock 2nd gen or the 100lb replacemen= t I installed) nor does it stay higher.=A0 The new pressure regulator, rated at 100lbs, I installed brought the press= ure up=A0 to about 70lbs for a very short while but has again dropped to a = little over 20 at idle and not getting to 30lbs at 6000 rpm (only at 6000 r= pm for a short while to determine if any progress, I do worry, especially about the PSRU-RDb).=A0 Oil is flo= wing as indicated by the system heating up.

This is a second gen, turbo engine.

Here it the list of what I have tried and some data points.

1.=A0 Yes, the front cover oil ring has been addressed, several times.=A0 I= have replaced it a few times now, WITH and without the silicone ring aroun= d it.=A0 I have had it disappear, however, I have now installed a brass tub= e tapped and screwed into the engine to minimize the o-ring being blown out.=A0 I have checked this install to ens= ure it has not been restricting anything. it does not seem to be as I have = run the engine, then removed the front cover and all was well, including th= e o-ring and silicone ring and it did not seem to hurt the iron or front cover.

2.=A0 The front cover does not seem warped or damaged.

3.=A0 I have replaced the rear pressure regulator with the 100lb version an= d modified the front bypass spring by placing the washers (2) provided by M= azdatrix.

4.=A0 I have verified that the oil pan pickup is not clogged and that it is= securely safety wired to the engine and that the seal (no gasket but gray = RTV) is secure.

5.=A0 I have replaced the oil pump with a new one from Mazdatrix.

6.=A0 I have verified the oil pump "key" is properly inserted and= that the gear is secure and torqued properly and that the washer is bent a= s it should be.=A0 I don't recall if I applied RTV between the pump and= block but I would think I did....this being the problem by oil seeping out is a stretch but I am considering all a can think off.<= br>
7.=A0 I have cleaned and inspected the stock oil cooler and it flows well.<= br>
8.=A0 I have removed the front secondary oil cooler that is installed in th= e front of my canard for cabin heat to simplify plumbing. Trhis eleminated = about four hoses as it was plumbed in parallel

9.=A0 The oil filter has been replaced with a new K&N 3001 filter.=A0 T= he remote filter mount has been checked and not problems are noted.=A0 I ha= ve also run the engine for a short while bypassing the oil filter to determ= ine if it was causing a blockage as my oil pressure sensors located after the filter.=A0 The oil pressure did raise s= ome, but only about 5 to 10 lbs.

10.=A0 I have checked that all the hoses flow freely.

11.=A0 The e-shaft was modified removing the stock spring to use jets for b= etter oil flow.=A0 I remember verify their install at the last tear-down.
12.=A0 I purchased all the iron (end and center) and rotor housings new fro= m Mazdatrix a while back.

13.=A0 The front and rear bearing have been replaced new. I thought maybe t= hat they were worn (or damaged) but with talking with Mazdatrix they said t= hey bearings would have to have much more significant wear than would usual= ly be had in not competitive use.=A0 They said this was a very unlikely cause.

14.=A0 The original location of the oil filter is modified but the use of t= he Mistral intake that provides an o-ring seal and passage in place of the = stock filter.

15.=A0 The turbo supply on the top of the engine and return oil passage on = the front cover have been capped off as I have removed the turbo as I test = the engine and until I can have produced a more robust turbo manifold as my= first one failed from power pulses/heat.

16.=A0 I have had not noticeable leaks from the engine.

17.=A0 I wondered if perhaps I left a seal off somewhere during the last re= build.=A0 I thought perhaps the o-rings that go around the dowls that go th= rough the engine....which I do NOT think happened.=A0 Matratrix stated that= if these were left out, I would be visibly leaking out the engine.

Okay, that is what I can think of for now.=A0 Please, what insight might y&= #39;all have.=A0 This does not seem to be an issue limited to a rotary but = it is a problem with my rotary so I may cross post.=A0 Forgive me if you mu= st drudge your way on other sites.

Is there a way to pressure test the oil system?=A0 My thought is that if I = tried to pressure test it that the oil would simply move around the bearing= s and such as designed and thus not "pump-up".=A0 If I could, per= haps the pumping up would show an internal leak as about the only thing I can think of is that an internal passage is crac= ked allowing oil to leak out back into the pan and not allowing proper pres= sure to develop. But, like I said the iron is new (well, a few years old no= w but purchased new then).=A0 I know factory parts can fail as I had the thin water channel passage break in th= e first hour with a new center plate when I bought the other parts.=A0 Mazd= atrix replaced it.

I am at a complete loss.=A0 I have started the ancillary tear down in prepa= ration to remove the engine from the plane for a better look, but since I a= m not certain what else to look for, I feel like I am spinning my wheels.= =A0 I believe I have been methodical but if not, or I am missing things, please speak up.

I have been grounded for the last few months at a nearby airport where I am= having to drop an extra $250.00 am month for hangar space.=A0 I lost the e= ngine over the airport due to an unrelated fuel blockage in the fuel rail b= ut since the pressure was notably down, I want to address it before I try to fly home...if that ever friken = happens....sigh.=A0 I would sure like to be throwing that money at a nicer = plane and not this circle I feel I am in.

Thanks everyone.

All the best,

Chris Barber
Houston, GSOT
Velocity SE/FG
Rotary 13b
Ellington Feild EFD and Pearland Municiple LVJ








--
David Leonar= d

Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
ht= tp://RotaryRoster.net
--e89a8ffbab6b2d2e1e04e50943ad--