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From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-5717726@logan.com>
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Subject: "O" rings??  was: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil leaking from between plates
Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 07:17:07 -0400
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Sounds like progress, Ernest.

However, I'm not certain the equation of oil spitting to power.  The oil 
pressure should remain fairly constant from 2000- above rpm.  Unless you are 
referring to perhaps the plates flexing more due to the increased power?

I think re-torquing the bolts would be the first step - who knows that might 
fix the problem.

 I presume you did place the "O" rings over the alignment  "tubes" between 
the plates that carry the oil when you assembled the engine?

Ed

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ernest Christley" <echristley@att.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 9:36 PM
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil leaking from between plates

> Well, it has been a little more than a year (or three), and I only torqued 
> it once then.  I'm going to go the route that there isn't enough pressure 
> holding the plates together.
>
> On a better note, the engine is spitting oil out the sides because it is 
> making more power.  As I've been learning to twist the right Megatune 
> knobs, I've had to back up, reconfigure and then retune multiple times. 
> But I've finally got it running smooth from an idle of 1500 to 5460.
>
> Oh, and I got one of my wings put on today!!!
>
>
>
>
> Lehanover@aol.com wrote:
>
>>The case bolts are like thick rubber bands that stretch a long way when
>>tightened. The object is to stretch them just into their working range 
>>when
>>torquing them up. Once torqued they hold that clamping power for a few
>>months,  then they relax just a hint. So to find a bolt that is still at 
>>full
>>torque a  year or a half a year later is almost impossible.
>>
>>You discover that the bolts seem to be very tight if you attempt to add
>>torque. Not the case (pun). The torque load has stuck the bolt at the head
>>contact surface and the thread contact area. There is a word for this 
>>factor,
>>but I forgot it. So the proper procedure is to unscrew the bolt a full
>>turn. The  idea that the torque is to be done with "Dry" threads is a bit
>>hopeful. Some  lubrication was there from running, less than perfect 
>>cleaning or
>>just touching  the threaded end with your hands. So the torque on each 
>>bolt
>>is actually  different to start with.
>>
>>So, if you want to see what the torque was approximately, mark a corner of
>>the bolt head with a dot. Mark the case next to that dot. Unscrew the bolt
>>a  full turn with a breaker bar. Not a torque wrench.
>>
>>Set the (Clicker style) torque wrench to the torque you expect to  find.
>>Mark the socket right over the corner of the case bolt with the dot.
>>
>>In one smooth motion with no stops, crank the mark on the socket around
>>until the mark on the iron lines up. You may find the click before that so
>>just  stop at the click. Or, you may not find a click so you just keep 
>>turning
>>until  the click. You may find that all of the bolts need to turn a bit
>>further to pull  the same torque. Or all of them stop before the marks 
>>line up.
>>
>>I use Nickel anti seize on the threads and under the heads and torque to
>>the smaller of the torque range numbers. I torque the case bolts 6 times 
>>on
>>the  day of the build, then again the next day. I always find a few 
>>unhappy
>>bolts the next day. You may loose a bolt now and then doing it my  way, so
>>keep a few spares on hand.
>>
>>If you are turning a bolt and it is not gaining torque, stop turning it a
>>discard it.
>>
>>Whatever method you use, do the torque pattern 6 times. You will be
>>surprised how many bolts keep turning as the stack settles down to dead 
>>flat.
>>
>>The irons are just not all that stiff. If it is holding torque the stack
>>will keep a warped iron flat enough to run. So the engine may finish the 
>>race
>> with all the irons junk and warped to junk status. So a leak from a 
>> warped
>>iron  is less likely.
>>
>>Will retorquing the stack stop the leak? Maybe....................
>>
>>Lynn E. Hanover
>>
>>
>>
>>message dated 8/17/2012 11:41:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>echristley@att.net writes:
>>
>>I have a  very slow oil leak, and I think I've traced it to originating at
>>the joint  between the rear rotor housing and
>>rear side plate.  I'd rather not  open the engine up to apply sealant, but
>>it is half a day's work to  disassemble
>>everything down to the point I can get a torque wrench on the  case bolts.
>>I'm conflicted on if I should go ahead and
>>break the case  open if I'm down that far already.
>>
>>How likely is that the seeping oil  can be solved by re-torquing the case
>>bolts?  If the torque is correct,  is it likely
>>that the end plate is warped?
>>
>>Would a good plan be to  check the torque, and only continue disassembly 
>>if
>>there is no movement?   That is assume that if
>>it is torque properly it must be a warped plate or  missing sealant, but 
>>if
>>the torque is low bringing it up to spec will
>>solve  the leak.
>>
>>
>>--
>>Homepage:   http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>Archive and UnSub:
>>http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>>
>
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