X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail-bk0-f52.google.com ([209.85.214.52] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4.6) with ESMTPS id 5627813 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 27 Jun 2012 08:34:20 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.214.52; envelope-from=msteitle@gmail.com Received: by bkcjc3 with SMTP id jc3so764844bkc.25 for ; Wed, 27 Jun 2012 05:33:43 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=20120113; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; bh=j5Bx+PP6x8iflSW3XELMJ4riPmxvjkqavfyqohbXcFc=; b=wAAeesFXRUMZSTr5YsAgWXneYfmllVklqFNYTokxPcUPqg4E/CZRLNcUVgsTiHlKXW TOewfnlTXWObalWzcDID/pWBf6FTgHw4XV9JUHn/hvUQ5ZGdcQ5fRf99Qjy76M88b3dp TDR+nNegYRBcRjRr6des6ivoj+6cZHj0Rtfwbk1YIrqZQ0qBPlNkHG0HcnSIe1SXbpni Lq1F8FZFEvkL6yZZXx8NRimIzu+AEuhMTalZn8iiNE9RtuFZZduK4PcRbYfgcAUW6hHq qmGJ8X+Nn0+KPXqLOEkOVpswIhq2KAYLaR0QnVpcuV18h9Iex/NtQKM+HXTiZoipdYqH b3LQ== MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: by 10.205.120.17 with SMTP id fw17mr7275677bkc.20.1340800423788; Wed, 27 Jun 2012 05:33:43 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.204.97.194 with HTTP; Wed, 27 Jun 2012 05:33:43 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 07:33:43 -0500 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Turbo oil drain on NA 13b front cover From: Mark Steitle To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Bill, I used the flat surface on the front cover just below the OMP as a place for my dipstick. No reason why you couldn't drill & tap for a turbo drain. Of course, you'd have to remove the front cover (not such a big deal, really). Mark S. On 6/26/12, Tracy wrote: > Option 1. - No, for the reasons you said. > 2. - OK, but more trouble than it's worth. > 3. - Would work. > 4. - Works fine . > > Best is to drill & tap foot of rear rotor housing on spark plug side. > > Tracy > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 26, 2012, at 1:59 PM, William Mason wrote: > >> Reading on an rx7 forum I've learned that there are multiple options for >> the turbo oil drain on an NA engine. >> >> >> I can weld a bung into the oil pan >> I can change the front cover to the Turbo 2 one >> I can drill and tap the NA cover to accept a -10AN fitting >> I can make a oil metering pump block-off plate that will accept a -10AN >> fitting >> >> >> My concerns are that that option one would put the drain oil below the >> oil level and add restriction. Option 2 would upset an already rebuilt >> engine... don't mess with perfection. Option 3 of the available areas >> to drill and below the OMP pad and further down on the cover... the >> slanted section, which one would be better? >> >> >> Option 4 seems best but it seems a little high and it too may cause some >> restriction. >> >> >> Has anybody used the OMP block-off-plate drain idea with any success? >> Should I just put my big-boy pants on and take the front cover off and >> either switch the front cover or drill/tap or tig a bung to the lower >> section of the front cover well below the OMP pad? >> >> >> Advice sought. >> >> >> Regards, >> Bill Mason >