Of the many things to think about is the oiling
system and pieces.
That bypass valve that filter folks talk about is
not a valve at all. Most filter spin on cans have the
elements pressed against the top cover
(where the oil enters and leaves) by a spring. Oil
flows into the can (through the small holes around the
outside) and exits through the big center hole. There
is a seal between the outer small holes and the inner
big hole.
When the element loads up with dirt or bearing
material, the pressure drop across the element forces
the element away from the top plate against a spring
in the bottom of the can. That spring is a real coil
spring in good filters, and a flat (leaf) in cheap
filters like Fram.
Where the can is mounted inverted, the heavy debris
piles up around the plate end of the element. So when
the element bypasses the oil can flow directly from
the small holes to the big hole with no filtration at
all.
And right there is all of that dying engine debris
ready to go right back to the bearings.
Where the can is mounted with the plate up, the
heavy stuff is at the bottom of the can away from the
plate. May not sound like much until
you arrive at over the trees at Podunk needing
only 2 seconds more power to clear that last tree and
make the runway.
The remote mount is a weight penalty unless you
needed more nose weight anyway. But provides more
latitude on location and clearance.
The inverted element tends to trap foamed oil at
low engine speeds, and save it as a dose of air and
condensate for your next start up.
K&N filters have a 450 to 550 pound burst can
and are used in most racing classes. They cost just
slightly more than a good street filter and are
available in any hot rod shop or mail order.
The Frams that Racing Beat suggests are really good
filters, and I would be shocked to find that Fram
actually makes them. Those filters are way too big for
aircraft use and very heavy when full of oil. The
usual filter stand is built to fit the Fram PH8A or
Lee FL-1 Both Ford crosses from the 70s. The center
hole is 3/4 x 16 thread.
The NAPA 1515 also works just fine if you have a
store close by.
About 9 GPM and 300 pound burst.
The airplane engine has a more severe duty cycle
than a race car. It is
load limited to about 6,500 RPM at wide open
throttle. So the heat is constant and high. The racer
has long periods of closed throttle and even though
the RPM may be much higher at times the cooling load
is lighter than for the aircraft.
We use one ounce per gallon of Red Line synthetic 2
cycle oil in the fuel. No wear, and never a failure.
For 2 cycle nonsynthetics I would never go less than
one ounce per gallon. And a bit more won't hurt
anything.
Never use synthetic crank case oil in the fuel. It
is very stable at high temps and will make black
puddles under you exhaust pipe.
I run on as usual.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 8/19/2011 11:39:52 A.M.
Paraguay Standard Time,
echristley@att.net writes:
One of these remote
mounts bolted to the firewall solves a lot of
problems. Just cover the filter block mount point
with a chunk of aluminum and pipe oil from the
remote mount into the port at the bottom of the
engine below the port. I
have an extra adapter to convert that port to AN
if you want it, but you'll need two. I think it
was Mazda Trix that
sells them.
Andrew Martin wrote:
> Charlie, I made my own adapter that utilises
stock filter, 20mm block
> drilled to reverse oil ports and accommodate
pressure,temp and RD-1c ports.
> easy to do just mark oil ports from gasket on
both sides of adapter
> block then drill holes at a 45° angle from
each side, think about it as
> its not hard to do once you drill in the
right direction.
>
> Andrew
>
>