David,
I can’t help but think that you may
be fixing something that is not broken. I realize that the flexplate came
apart on your plane, but that doesn’t mean that the flexplate is the
cause of the problem. That flexplate holds up quite well in the car with
a heavy torque converter attached to it. Think of the forces when a car
under heavy acceleration changes gear! As long as the forces are along the
plane of the plate it is very strong. Not so much in the forward/rearward
directions. In fact that would cause metal fatigue and cause it to break
just like yours did. I think that what ever is causing the endplay is
what you should be looking at. I suspect that if you check out the
transmission on the car you will find that the endplay of the input shaft is controlled
by thrust bearings or some such device. Lynn may know the answer to this??
That msg from Al Wick really resonates
with me. Tracy
had to install a thrust bearing to prevent the drive shaft from hitting the
bottom of the pilot bearing and causing an eccentric shaft failure on the
engine. Maybe you now need to add a cage similar to what Al was
discussing that will trap the shaft end play completely. That, to me,
makes more sense than adding a bigger flywheel. If you strengthen the
weak spot, you will then discover where the next weakest spot is because that
will be the next failure!
This is a real opportunity for you and the
rest of us with the same drive. Please study this a little more before
you begin the fix!
Bill B
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of David Leonard
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 12:42
AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Ok Here are
the important flywheel measurements
I finally got to the hangar and measured out my S5 turbo flywheel and
the remains of my S5 flexplate. The results are very encouraging, even as
good as the possibly could be to make the swap, but I only had ten min at the
hangar before I had to leave to pick up my daughter from daycare, so they are
one try and slightly sloppy... I make no guarantees. The height
measurements of the flex plate were particularly suspect because, well, mine is
all warped and broken.
Ring Gear Diameter - Perfect
fit. As we suspected, same size, same tooth spacing.
Ring Gear Fore-Aft Placement - As
measured from the underside of the big nut. (for all further reference, aft
means aft in the CAR). The flex plate puts the aft side of the ring gear
1.290 inches from the front of the big nut. The flywheel puts it 0.913.
So the flex plate puts the ring gear (appx) 0.377 in. further aft. This
is actually fortuitous because it just so happens that the ring gear thickness
is .365 ... So all we have to do to fix the discrepancy is
weld and extra ring gears onto to the flywheel ring gear and there will be
teeth that the starter can reach:(bottom of the page.. the cost $80)
http://mazdatrix.com/flywheel.htm
It may also be possible to fix the discrepancy by changing the starter... will
look into that.
Damper Plate Placement - On the
flywheel, the mounting surface is proud (or aft) of the ring gear. On the
flex plate, the mounting surface is recessed (or forward) from the ring gear.
And it all pretty much works out. That position on the flywheel will vary
somewhat depending on which flywheel you have and how much wear you have on the
clutch slip surface. But on my (I assume well-worn) flywheel the placement was
0.965 while the flex plate was 0.950. Pretty damn close and given
measurement error it might me meant to be right on. Or, any difference
could be made up by trimming down the spline on the damper plate or removing or
adding spacers between the two.
So in my mind, a flywheel is the way to go. Stout, easy to get, pick your
weight, only mods seem to be drilling the mounting holes and welding on a
second gear ring.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net