Apex seal at the bottom. Gear comes right out. No problem. Goes right back
in, no problem.
On assembly, Clamp the flex plate in the engine direction. Use a bungee or
a light clamp or rubber bands. Keep in place for the whole build. This will
prevent the rear bearing from falling off of the spacer when you slip on various
pieces onto the crank nose.
Grease up the rear hard washer with the chamfer to the crank, thrust
bearing and the spacer and slip on as a unit to avoid dropping the bearing
off of the spacer. Then the thrust plate. Note that the spacer sticks out of the
thrust plate only the thickness of the front bearing plus the end
play (about .003"). Complete the build and remove the clamps/bungees. Check
end play with a dial indicator. You need .025" to .035" anywhere in that range
is fine. Very light pry with a screw driver, as thrust plate flex looks like end
play as well.
If the front bearing died, there should be sparklies in the pan oil and
filter. The crank may be scuffed up as well. Could be a suction side problem as
well. Pick up screw heads must be safetied. Use a torque wrench. I use no gasket
or sealant of any kind on the pickup. I run the flange down to dead flat on a
piece of 400 wet sand paper. There is no gasket or sealant to fail. If the
bearing looks good I would look elsewhere. With any kind of pressure at all the
bearings will do fine. They are much over sized for the loads involved.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 7/15/2011 12:01:44 A.M. Paraguay Standard Time,
cbarber@texasattorney.net writes:
I get about 6200 static. My pressure is not getting anywhere near
that now. It was originally in the high sixties after
my last rebuild. Now the most I am getting is about 45 and of course I
do not really like running it up with low pressure.
I had not seen that rule of thumb before, but remember your
manuals cautions regarding if you oil pressure does not come up,
find out why thus my latest