Lynn,

   I am plumbing oil system and need your opinion on hose sizes...............I am trying to reduce

restriction as much as possible from engine to external filter ("WIX" HP6 equivalent),oil cooler

and return to engine..........I will have external oil pressure adjustment ("AVIAID" filter mount with

regulator for return to sump)...........I know most of the flying group are using AN-10 (a few AN-8)

but I am leaning to AN-12..............Overkill perhaps (HP6 flows up to 22 gal/min) but weighs less

than two HP1 + filter mount............I want to reduce pump heating of oil as much as possible and 

reduce hose restriction losses by returning regulator bypass oil directly to sump with out passing

through the oil cooler and hose to it...........What say you.............

 

Best Regards,

(Wish I could attend Sun-N-Fun) 
 

Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)

Dash 10 is plenty big and a bit lighter, and a bit less expensive. No pipe threads into cast iron other than a dash 4 for oil pressure. Use boss fittings that seal with an "O" ring. So no cracked castings. Back up all fittings when connecting hoses. That means hold the fitting with a wench and a second wrench on the "B" nut. Then squeeze the wrenches together with one hand to tighten or loosen a connection. Support each hose close to its connection, so as to keep pushing and pulling to the long run of hose and not stress the fittings. No braided hoses can touch anything but a padded clamp. It can saw through another hose or anything it touches Both braided hose and Kevlar hose are conductive and if you fail a ground strap will carry your starter current just as well, with very bad outcomes. 

 

No 90 degree fittings. If you need a bend close to a fitting use a sweep 90 Hose end and a straight fitting. Observe minimum hose bend radius.

 

You want to be sure the filter has a bypass function in case of an element collapse or excessive debris collection.

 

At 6,000 RPM probably 14 GPM is adequate. I would control the pressure after everything including the cooler(s) since it is the pressure that makes the heat, and I would not pass up a chance to run oil through a cooler. If possible route return oil into the pan at the lowest point available. This will mix in a lot less air into the sump oil. I install stock regulators with the outlets sideways rather than down for that reason. Keep the return pipe at dash 10 to keep velocity low into the pan. Stay well away from the pickup.

 

Racing beat says everything up to the 93-95 twin turbo ran 71.1 PSI, then the 93 up runs 110 PSI.

 

We raced on 85 PSI and the store bought engines (Drummond) run 100 PSI (non turbo)

 

Lynn E. Hanover