Without reveling proprietory info can you give a hint
as to where the "O" rings
are in Bill's P port inserts ??.................
--------------
Original message from "George Lendich" <lendich@aanet.com.au>:
--------------
Mike,
I have been a PP convert from the beginning,
because of the additional power gains, however my concerns from the
beginning were fitting of the PP, inlet size and shape and tuning for ram
effect.
I agree with Lynn on the inlet shape, however
oblong is difficult to achieve for everyone, so the round being next best
and is easier to make and fit, I settled on that.
However I still had a nagging feeling that all
PP's leak over time no matter what you do to seal them.
This belief as a result of many discussions with engine
rebuilders and racers.
Now that Bill has designed the two
piece inlet ( redesign of the Powersport
unit) with O ring sealing, I am much happier and will go that way. I have
already placed my order for some.
Bill is intending to test the PP size for power
as soon as humanly possible, however it's not the highest priority, at this
point in time.
The Powersport were a lower reduction
unit designed for max power at 6,000 rpm. I can only assume ( from
discussions) their considering redesigning with a 2.8:1 ratio to take
advantage of higher RPM, which affects a whole range of things - including
the PP size ( that certainly is my suggestion anyway). My guess is a
whole lot of work must be done before they get to that
stage.
All I can say is wait for the results, I
believe you will be pleasantly pleased with the additional power, my guess
is about 230 hp for a 2 rotor at 7,200 rpm - maybe more at that RPM and to
7,500 rpm.
George (down under)
Dave,
I am going to do something different with the
intake at some point. I cant get the prop RPM that I should be
getting in level flight and I refuse to hack on the prop until I convince
myself that there isnt a little more HP in the engine via a better intake.
Also, my current config wont allow the fit of an air filter and I don’t
want to fly forever without one. So would like to change the config
to accommodate a filter and ram air.
I havent decided what route to take yet. Either a
better 4 port manifold or a PP engine/manifold. Waiting to see how the PP
guys make out (Mark S., how about an update). In either case I'll
build it on my spare engine and get it all done off the airplane so it is
plug and play with minimal down time. I hope to do it sometime
next winter.
Current status. Havent had a chance to fly again
since my loss of power due to fuel starvation a few weeks ago. Went
through the entire fuel system but didn’t find a smoking gun. Replaced my
fuel filters with some higher flow units, but don’t believe that was the
problem. Replaced my injectors with the original ones I had rebuilt by RC
Engineering. The new injectors flow more fuel so now the tuning is a
little out of whack.
Also at the last oil change I switched from a
straight weight mineral oil to Mobil One. Now my previously tight engine
leaks like a sieve. So trying to address numerous oil leaks. But I think
I'm getting close to resuming flight.
Oh, one more distraction. Just about into the
soaring season so I'm thrashing trying to get my glider ready for
summer.
Mike Wills
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 11:05 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling for ground
runs
Mike,
Repeat after me: "I will not rebuild unnecessarily, I will fly
instead." "I will not rebuild unnecessarily, I will fly instead." "I will
not rebuild unnecessarily, I will fly instead." "I will not rebuild
unnecessarily, I will fly instead."
Lets face it. You tinkered with that thing for many
years. If you were ever going to get it right you would have done it
by now. So quit trying and keep flying. :-)
On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 10:51 PM, Mike Wills
<rv-4mike@cox.net> wrote:
Scott,
I agree with Dave, that looks great. One picture
shows your intake manifold. Looks like you used a casting for the lower
part with a transition to tubing. Where did you get the casting? Is it a
stock Mazda turbo casting that you cut the top off of? I'd like to
do something similar. Not real happy with my current manifold and would
like to rebuild it.
Mike Wills
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 9:49 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling for ground
runs
Thanks Scott,
You are right about what I said and I
will clarify a little. I say if it wont cool on the ground, it
wont cool in the air because when I first started flying I had marginal
cooling on the ground and marginal cooling in the air. At that
time I could idle and taxi indefinitely unless the OAT was above 85 or
so, when my taxi times would be limited to about 30 minutes.
cooling in the air was similarly limited to shallow climbs and less than
full power in all but the coolest of climates.
However, Chris may
be talking about high power ground runs which is a different
story. A full 5 minutes at full power on the ground is sure to
push the limits of most installations, and a temporary spray bar fed
from a hose is a reasonable thought if you feel the need to do extended
ground runs at or near full power.
BTW Scott,
I just took
another look at your website and picture. You sure have done very
nice workmanship. I can't wait to see that thing fly! It is
guaranteed to be one of the fastest RV's around.
--
David
Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.nethttp://RotaryRoster.net
On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 8:55 PM,
<shipchief@aol.com> wrote:
Chris & Terria:
I had ground running temp issues at lower power. Dave Leonard
told me that it's important to get it to self cool at low to mid power
on the ground. He said that reliance on sufficient cooling when you
come up to flying speed most likely won't work if it won't self
cool on the ground. I took his advise and redesigned my cooling
system, which by the way looks a lot like yours with major differences
being cooler ducting and cooler orientation. He's a link to my page @
EAA326 site:
http://gallery.eaa326.org/main.php?g2_itemId=1727Tracy
has commented that I should have reduced the cross section of my oil
cooler duct more quickly to force the air to uniformly pass thru the
oil cooler core. I applied that thinking to my water cooler which I
built next, and it worked even better than my cardboard and tape trial
duct.
What is the engine RPM and % load that you start to have cooling
problems?
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris and Terria <
candtmallory@embarqmail.com>
To: Rotary motors
in aircraft <
flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sat, Apr
17, 2010 10:02 am
Subject: [FlyRotary] cooling for ground
runs
Gents,
I am doing the higher power ground runs now, and
am only able to run for about 5 minutes before reaching 195* or
so. I’m looking for ideas on how to extend the time for each
ground run. I was thinking of adding a spray bar like others
have discussed. My thought was to drill some holes in some PVC
and connect it to the garden hose. Then put it in the intake in
front of the radiator. I would have to run the hose out the
front and clamp it down so it doesn’t come close to the prop.
I’m open to all ideas though.
I’ve attached a picture that shows my radiator
and duct work.
Thanks,
Chris
--