Return-Path: Received: from smtp5.netdoor.com ([208.137.128.159] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with ESMTP id 2913236 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 01 Jan 2004 09:27:41 -0500 Received: from netdoor.com (port1072.jxn.netdoor.com [208.148.210.172]) by smtp5.netdoor.com (8.12.10/8.12.1) with ESMTP id i01ERT8v016423 for ; Thu, 1 Jan 2004 08:27:30 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <3FF3BB86.5040507@netdoor.com> Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2004 00:17:42 -0600 From: Charlie & Tupper England Reply-To: cengland@netdoor.com User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624 Netscape/7.1 (ax) X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Rotary first run tips from Lehanover (was: Re: exhaust flange?) References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Spam-Score: 0 X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.31 (www . roaringpenguin . com / mimedefang) repost to ease the archive search for 1st start info Lehanover@aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 12/31/2003 6:56:18 PM Central Standard Time, >sladerj@bellsouth.net writes: > ><< Lynn, > Since you're in a talkative mood.... > I'm almost ready to fire up my 13B for the first time. It was rebuilt and > internally greased to keep it good. For the past 4 years it's been on my > patio exposed to the Florida humidity with the holes plugged.... most of the > time. It makes a nice sucking & blowing sound when turned by hand. > > > Be sure to establish that there is oil pressure. Then coolant > > flow. > > Anything else you'd suggest before the first run? Flush out the oil / water > galleries? What with? How do you check that there's coolant flow? remove a > hose? >> > >Remove the plugs. Take off the oil filter. Pour oil into the outer hole in >the filter adapter. The hole where the oil leaves the adapter and enters the >filter. Oil flow direction is outside in. When the oil stacks up and it won't >take any more, turn the engine over backwards. Eventually this will prime the >pump. Let it sit for a while and do the same thing again. Look into the exhaust >ports and push in on each apex seal to be sure none are stuck in the rotor. >Turning the engine backwards and keeping the adapter full of oil. Now pour some >oil into the center hole of the adapter. This hole takes filtered oil to all of >the bearings. > >Check the oil level in the sump. Spin the engine with the starter for 2 >seconds while watching the filter adapter. Oil should gush out of the outer hole. >Once this happens, fill a new filter full of oil. Pile wadded up paper towels >up around the filter adapter. Put oil on the filter gasket. Invert the filter >and quickly screw it into place. >Clean up the spilled oil. > >Disconnect the oil pressure sender line at the gage. Spin the engine with the >starter until oil squirts from the sender line. Reconnect the oil pressure >gage. > >Now the pump should be primed and some oil from the inverted filter is >charging the upper oil passages. Spin the engine with the starter. Be sure to have >the ignition system disabled. Some can be damaged without a plug to fire. Watch >the oil pressure gage. Oil pressure will come in fits and starts as air is >forced through the bearings. Then after a few seconds of cranking pressure >should come up to 25 to 35 pounds. > > Let the starter rest a bit and do it again. Soon oil pressure will come up >right after the starter turns it over. Adjust the throttle system to fully >closed butterflies. Make sure both return springs are fully functional. Hook up >the header and the ignition. Put the plugs back in. > >Squirt in some fuel from your specially marked oil can. Turn on the ignition >(timed at 20 degrees BTDC total). Keep your hand on some part of the ignition >system, a switch, a wire that can be pulled off, whatever. Should anything go >wrong, turn it off. > >Crank it up. There will be some smoke from the preservative. It may be much >louder than you expected. First, check for oil pressure. Then hold your hand on >the water out let on top that goes to the radiator. It should start to warm >up within 60 seconds of starting. If not shut it down and let some more air out >of the upper engine. The high mounted pump is bad about loosing a prime if >any air goes by. You need oil pressure first. Then coolant flow second. Have a >test oil pressure gage where you can see it or have an informed helper watch >that gage. Run it for one minute Shut it down and dance around the room. Look >in a mirror. See the big grin? Have a beer. > >Check for oil and coolant leaks. > >Run it for two minutes checking as above. Put a fan in front of the radiator >and run it for an hour. With lots of ventilation. That should do it. If that >engine was fresh, 2 hours at fast idle, about 2000 RPM is enough break in. Move >timing to whatever the engine builder likes. Change the oil. > >Lynn E. Hanover > > > >>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html >>> >>> > > >