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Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 12:27:44 -0500
Message-ID: <1ab24f410912060927i438536bdt7fe3f38d2111be34@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Oil starvation
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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This is a similar question about smoothing an iron I did for the "Nopistons"
list. This is for irons that have been run so long they have developed a
chrome like finish. New seals will take a year to seat in on a chrome
finish. Same as honing a cylinder in a piston engine. I prefer the better
oil holding of a deeper finish to that of a stock Mazda. But almost anything
will work.

Also Yawpower has the web site back up, and I urge you to read all of his
tech articles about rotaries.

http://www.yawpower.com/CompanyInfo.html

You can lap the surface yourself and you can get it ready with a random
orbital sander. Used dry with 180 grit paper,
this alone will get most of the surface close to one color. You can run the
front iron against the front side of the center iron with oil and valve
grinding compound in between. Wipe it off now and then to be sure all of the
surface
has a flat finish with no shiny spots. This will produce a very satisfactory
result on both irons. About half way through, rotate the top iron 180
degrees so the ports are not together the whole time. If you have a mill or
access to one make a bar and plate with holes in the plate to mount a
bearing on a bolt. Plant the bearing in the center hole, so it impinges the
iron about one inch. Run the mill slowly and keep adding grinding paste as
you go along.
A few layers of Visqueen under the bottom plate will keep the mill clean and
allow reuse of the paste. Bolt on a rod of some kind and run the rod through
a fixed bracket or just any bracket on the bed to keep the iron from
spinning. Then you flip the center iron over and do the same again with the
rear iron. If you drill press has an electronic speed control that allows
for very slow rotation, you can use it as well.

This method costs nearly nothing and produces very flat irons with a nice
oil holding finish. Clean the irons at the car wash with high pressure water
and soap. Spray with WD-40.

You can do this by hand as well, but it will take all day long. This can be
done quite a few times without bothering the nitride. Piece of cake. This
has to do with finish, and is not much help with wear grooves since it
removes very little material.

Lynn E. Hanover

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<div>This is a similar question about smoothing an iron I did for the &quot=
;Nopistons&quot; list. This is for irons that have been run so long they ha=
ve developed a chrome like finish. New seals will take a year to seat in on=
 a chrome finish. Same as honing a cylinder in a piston engine. I prefer th=
e better oil holding of a deeper finish to that of a stock Mazda. But almos=
t anything will work.=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Also Yawpower has the web site back up, and I urge you to read all of =
his tech articles about rotaries.=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div><a href=3D"http://www.yawpower.com/CompanyInfo.html">http://www.yawpow=
er.com/CompanyInfo.html</a></div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>You can lap the surface yourself and you can get it ready with a rando=
m orbital sander. Used dry with 180 grit paper,<br>this alone will get most=
 of the surface close to one color. You can run the front iron against the =
front side of the center iron with oil and valve grinding compound in betwe=
en. Wipe it off now and then to be sure all of the surface <br>
has a flat finish with no shiny spots. This will produce a very satisfactor=
y result on both irons. About half way through, rotate the top iron 180 deg=
rees so the ports are not together the whole time. If you have a mill or ac=
cess to one make a bar and plate with holes in the plate to mount a bearing=
 on a bolt. Plant the bearing in the center hole, so it impinges the iron a=
bout one inch. Run the mill slowly and keep adding grinding paste as you go=
 along.<br>
A few layers of Visqueen under the bottom plate will keep the mill clean an=
d allow reuse of the paste. Bolt on a rod of some kind and run the rod thro=
ugh a fixed bracket or just any bracket on the bed to keep the iron from sp=
inning. Then you flip the center iron over and do the same again with the r=
ear iron. If you drill press has an electronic speed control that allows fo=
r very slow rotation, you can use it as well.<br>
<br>This method costs nearly nothing and produces very flat irons with a ni=
ce oil holding finish. Clean the irons at the car wash with high pressure w=
ater and soap. Spray with WD-40. <br><br>You can do this by hand as well, b=
ut it will take all day long. This can be done quite a few times without bo=
thering the nitride. Piece of cake. This has to do with finish, and is not =
much help with wear grooves since it removes very little material.<br>
<br>Lynn E. Hanover</div>

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