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Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 11:59:53 -0500
Message-ID: <1ab24f410912060859o1201co806a087f6492fd9e@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Oil starvation
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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 Here is the photo of the end housing damage by the oil starvation.
>
> Rino Lacombe


Noting too bad there. The dark spots will be harder than the other areas now
and will resist being smoothed down.

Hit those lightly with a course stone then lap the irons against each other.
Valve grinding compound is fine. Just get a dull grey surface all over. If
one of the damaged area keeps showing up as a shiny spot, hit it again with
the stone and lap some more.

You can rig up a vertical mill to run slow enough to drag an iron around in
circles with an offset bearing.

Or, do it by hand. If after several hours of lapping, your suspect iron is
only showing grey on two corners,

the iron is warped beyond repair, and you need another iron.

Sand the thrust surfaces on the rotors smooth.

Put the rotors in a press and push the gear into its hole good and hard.
Measure to be sure the land width is well below the minimum. (The width of
the rotor housings).The side seals and corner seals will keep the rotors
centered just fine.

If you premix oil and fuel, use a synthetic straight weight oil in the sump.
40 wt unless you fly in Canada in the winter. And premix a name brand 2
cycle oil in the fuel. If you use the OMP, then use a straight weight racing
oil in the sump. 40 weight again but a conventional oil not a synthetic.

Why the racing oil? Why a conventional? Why a synthetic?

A synthetic is by far the best lubricant, but most of them don't burn very
well. So, if you premix, its the best choice.

Racing oil has an additive that breaks up foam bubbles. Rotaries make lots
of foam by squirting a stream of oil into the spinning rotors. Racing oils
have lots of zinc compounds in them to prevent metal transfere.

We don't want any metal transfer.

So, the best sump oil when premixing is a synthetic racing oil. More
antiscuff, more anti foam and the best lubricant.

The 6,000 RPM you turn up an airplane engine is not the same as the 3,000
you might turn up a car engine. The street oil people hope you won't go over
4,000 RPM. The racing oil people know you will go over 6,000 RPM. My driver
shifts at 9,600 RPM. Because the power curve has started down, not because
the engine will not go higher without damage.

In unlimited intake rules racing, the limit is 10,700 for short races and
10,300 for long races. In drag racing they leave the line at over 11,000
RPM.

You do of course have to keep oil in it.........

Lynn E. Hanover

And on a darker note:

Get a Doppler Carotid check. Cheap, fast, painless. My wife hounded me into
getting one and I resisted because I don't like doctors or hospitals and I
had no symptoms at all.  My Doppler showed a major blockage on the right
side. I did a dye check. Plastick hose through the groin into the Carotid to
make high contrast movies in great detail from various angles. Not as bad as
it sounds, but takes up a day of laying still in a bed watching TV. The
movie shows a 99% blockage. The Doctor canceles office hours on Friday and
does my Carotided. Cut open neck, cut open artery, peel out 1/2 pound of
plaque, sew up artery, staple up neck. Feels fine just a bit stiff the first
day.

In the pictures it looks like a black soda straw with a one inch section
missing. I was one sneeze away from........

And I have big arteries. Smaller folks don't fare as well. So get it done.
Any candy ass can get through the Doppler test. They just rub your neck with
a sensor. Maybe a pretty girl will do yours. Takes 5 minutes. Do it. So we
won't have to help your widow sell your junk.

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<div>=A0Here is the photo of the end housing damage by the oil starvation.<=
br>&gt;<br>&gt; Rino Lacombe</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Noting too bad there. The dark spots will be harder than the other are=
as now and will resist being smoothed down. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Hit those lightly with a course stone then lap the irons against each =
other. Valve grinding compound is fine. Just get a dull grey surface all ov=
er. If one of the damaged area keeps showing up as a shiny spot, hit it aga=
in with the stone and lap some more.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>You can rig up a vertical mill to run slow enough to drag an iron arou=
nd in circles with an offset bearing. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Or, do it by hand. If after several hours of lapping, your suspect iro=
n is only showing grey on two corners,</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>the iron is warped beyond repair, and you need another iron. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Sand the thrust surfaces on the rotors smooth.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Put the rotors in a press and push the gear into its hole good and har=
d. Measure to be sure the land width is well below the minimum. (The width =
of the rotor housings).The side seals and corner seals will keep the rotors=
 centered just fine.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>If you premix oil and fuel, use a synthetic straight weight oil in the=
 sump. 40 wt unless you fly in Canada in the winter. And premix a name bran=
d 2 cycle oil in the fuel. If you use the OMP, then use a straight weight r=
acing oil in the sump. 40 weight again but a conventional oil not a synthet=
ic. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Why the racing oil? Why a conventional? Why a synthetic?</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>A synthetic is by far the best lubricant, but most of them don&#39;t b=
urn very well. So, if you premix, its the best choice. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Racing oil has an additive that breaks up foam bubbles. Rotaries make =
lots of foam by squirting a stream of oil into the spinning rotors. Racing =
oils have lots of zinc compounds in them to prevent metal transfere.</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>We don&#39;t want any metal transfer.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>So, the best sump oil when premixing is a synthetic racing oil. More a=
ntiscuff, more anti foam and the best lubricant.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>The 6,000 RPM you turn up an airplane engine is not the same as the 3,=
000 you might turn up a car engine. The street oil people hope you won&#39;=
t go over 4,000 RPM. The racing oil people know you will go over 6,000 RPM.=
 My driver shifts at 9,600 RPM. Because the power curve has started down, n=
ot because the engine will not go higher without damage.=A0<br>
=A0</div>
<div>In unlimited intake rules racing, the limit is 10,700 for short races =
and 10,300 for long races. In drag racing they leave the line at over 11,00=
0 RPM. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>You do of course have to keep oil in it.........</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>And on a darker note:</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Get a Doppler Carotid check. Cheap, fast, painless. My wife hounded me=
 into getting one and I resisted because I don&#39;t like doctors or hospit=
als and I had no symptoms at all.=A0 My Doppler showed a major blockage on =
the right side. I did a dye check. Plastick hose through the groin into the=
 Carotid to make high contrast=A0movies in great detail from various angles=
. Not as bad as it sounds, but takes up a day of laying still in a bed watc=
hing TV. The movie shows a 99% blockage. The Doctor canceles office hours o=
n Friday and does my Carotided. Cut open neck, cut open artery, peel out 1/=
2 pound of plaque, sew up artery, staple up neck. Feels fine just a bit sti=
ff the first day. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>In the pictures it looks like a black soda straw with a one inch secti=
on missing. I was one sneeze away from........</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>And I have big arteries. Smaller folks don&#39;t fare as well. So get =
it done. Any candy ass can get through the Doppler test. They just rub your=
 neck with a sensor. Maybe a pretty girl will do yours. Takes 5 minutes. Do=
 it. So we won&#39;t have to help your widow sell your junk.=A0</div>

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