Great flying, Rino!!    Dead stick landings (having made three in my 10 years) always get my heart rate up a notch not to mention disappearing seat cushions.  Fortunately, the rotary has a lot of bearing area and can survive longer without adequate oil pressure than most engines – but, as Lynn said, tear it down, rebuild it and let us know what you find.

 

I only use SS braided lines for oil, fuel AND coolant (I know a bit anal on the coolant lines being capable of handling 750 psi of coolant pressure), but I have never had a line break – yet.

 

Needless to say, glad you made it down to the lake safely and both you and the aircraft will fly again.

 

Welcome to the club {:>)

 

Ed. 

 

Engine monitors with a low oil pressure warning should be in every airplane!!
This could save an engine and give you an early warning so you could have some engine power left if needed.

Dennis Hl

Bob White wrote:

Hi Rino,

I can't add any advice on engine damage, besides Lynn is by far the

expert.  I am glad you got it down OK.  

I would be interested in what type of hose you were using, what

contributed to the failure, and where exactly the failure occurred.

Thanks,

Bob W.

On Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:14:33 -0400

"Rino" <lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca> wrote:

Thanks Lynn,

I have rebuilt two 13bs before, this one is a Renesis.  I do not fly in the winter so this is going to keep me busy for a while.

Rino

  ----- Original Message ----- 

  From: Lynn Hanover 

  To: Rotary motors in aircraft 

  Sent: Friday, November 20, 2009 8:47 PM

  Subject: [FlyRotary] Oil Pressure

  I did a dead stick landing yesterday on a nearby lake because of a busted 

  oil hose.  Lost the oil pressure and lost the oil.   The engine stopped, so 

  I do not know how long it ran without oil prsssure.    What should I  look 

  for to see if any damage was done to the engine and to the redrive?

  I fixed the hose, refilled the oil and flew back to the airport.

  The engine develop full power and run smooth.

  Turning the prop by hand I get compression on all lobes.

  Going to replace all oil hoses!

  Rino 

  You must assume that it quit because the rotors were draging on the irons because the rotors overheated and got to be too long for the space. 

  And, or, the bearings began welding themselves to the crank. 

  Take it all apart. No matter who says what. Take it apart. Rebuild the reduction unit. Replace everything. 

  Even if there is nothing in the pan, and nothing in the filter.

  If you have never done it before, it is easy. Puting back together is only a bit more difficult. Buy the overhaul disc or tape from Tracy.

  Where are you located?

  Lynn E. Hanover  

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